Page 130 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
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128 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


        WHERE TO STAY
                               6 Belluno
       BELLUNO                 Veneto; 32100
       Albergo delle Alpi  moderate  Backed by the soaring Schiara massif,
       Furnished with all mod cons, this hotel,   pretty Belluno, the provincial capital,
       built on the site of a historic inn in the   is worth a visit for its grand squares,
       town centre, also has a good restaurant.    such as Piazza del Mercato (also
       Via Jacopo Tasso 13, 32100;    known as Piazza delle Erbe), lined
       0437 940 545; www.dellealpi.it
                               with splendid Renaissance palaces
       FELTRE                  and home to an elegant 15th-century
       Via Paradiso 32  moderate  fountain. Nearby, the 16th-century
       This comfortable modern renovation   Duomo has a Baroque campanile
       in the town centre has three suites   that affords excellent views in all
       and serves local delicacies at breakfast.
       Via Paradiso 32, 32032; 348 870 9622;   directions. The town’s Museo Civico
       www.viaparadiso32.it    is worth visiting for its paintings by   8 Monte Grappa
                               local 16th–18th century masters.  Veneto; 36061
       MONTE GRAPPA            ª Head back to SP1 and turn right to   Towering over the edge of the vast
       Albergo Forcelletto  inexpensive  Feltre, past Trichiana and Mel. After   Veneto plain is 1,775-m (5,823-ft)
       This simple mountain inn is managed
       by a friendly local family and set in a   Lentiai, fork right on the SS50 to cross   high Monte Grappa. The peak is
       superbly panoramic location.    the River Piave towards Feltre. Follow   home to Cima Grappa, a monumental
       Località Forcelletto, 32030; 349 954   signs for “centro”, then “centro storico”,   terraced ossario, a poignant memorial
       4757; www.forcellato.it; closed Tue &   circling the town to the car park. Yellow   to the Italian and Austrian troops
       Mon–Fri in winter
                               signs direct pedestrians into Feltre.  whose bones rest there. Lush
       BASSANO DEL GRAPPA                              meadows now cover the World War I
       Hotel Al Castello  inexpensive  7 Feltre        battlefields. On a clear day, the views
       This traditional inn has cosy rooms    Veneto; 32032  extend all the way to the Adriatic
       and is well placed for sightseeing.   This charming walled Renaissance   coast and Venice.
       Via Bonamigo 19, 36061; 0424 22 8665;
       www.hotelalcastello.it  town comes alive in mid-Aug for    ª Return to SS148 and turn left for
                               its colourful Palio horse race and   the zig-zag descent to Romano
       ASOLO                   medieval pageantry festival. Only    d’Ezzelino. Turn right on SP74 and
       Albergo Al Sole  moderate  3 km (2 miles) away is Pedavena,   follow signs for “centro”. Park on
       This is a captivating 16th-century villa   known for its brewery. It is also the   Viale Fosse by the town walls.
       with mod cons, near the main piazza.    gateway to the wild Vette Feltrine
       Via Collegio 33, 31011; 0423 951 332;
       www.albergoalsole.com; closed Jan  mountain range, part of the Dolomiti  9 Bassano del Grappa
                               Bellunesi National Park, where there   Veneto; 36061
       TREVISO                 are spectacular walks to be enjoyed   With a charming, traffic-free centre,
       Albergo Il Focolare  moderate  (www.dolomitipark.it).  Bassano is well-known for ceramics,
       This popular hotel is charming,   ª Leave Feltre on the SS50, towards   fiery grappa spirit and the prized
       comfortable and handily located.
       Piazza Ancilotto 4, 31100; 0422 56601;   Bassano, then turn left at Cáupo    white asparagus (in spring). For some
       www.ilfocolarehotel.com  following signs for “Monte Grappa”    wonder ful rooftop views, climb the
                               on the scenic SS148 as it winds its    43-m (141-ft) high Torre Civica.
                               way up the northernmost flank of    Straddling the River Brenta is the
        SHOPPING IN THE VENETO
                               the mountain. Drive on past Osteria   landmark bridge Ponte degli Alpini,
       In Monte Bassano, look for fine cheese   Forcelletto and take the fork to SP149   designed by Andrea Palladio in 1571
       such as Morlacco and Bastardo del   to Cima Grappa.  (rebuilt 1948), from which there are
       Grappa in La Speloncia (Via Bocchette
       di Mezzo; 0439 438 260;  Jun–Sep).
         For hand-decorated ceramics in
       Bassano del Grappa, try L’Arte della
       Ceramica (Via Angarano 21; 0424 503
       901); or taste the wide range of grappa
       and liqueurs at Osteria Grapperia
       Nardini (Ponte Vecchio 2;
       0424 227 741; www.nardini.it).
         Gourmet goodies such as potted
       red chicory (radicchio rosso) abound
       in Treviso, especially at Bottega del
       Baccalà (Via S Parisio 15–17; 0422 540
       818; www.fermi-treviso.com).
       Right View of Bassano del Grappa from its
       famous wooden bridge  Top Boating on one
       of Treviso’s many tree-shaded canals


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