Page 131 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
P. 131

DRIVE 12: Dolomites to Veneto Hills  129


                                                        Far left Road leading to Belluno  Left
                                                        Delightful Belluno with its Duomo and
                                                        Baroque campanile  Below Flowers adorning
                                                        houses in the pretty hillside town of Asolo
                                                         EAT AND DRINK

                                                        FELTRE
                                                        Osteria Crash  moderate
                                                        A fun and friendly eatery with an
                                                        excellent selection of wines and beers.
                                                        Via Paradiso 46, 32032; 0439 81169;
                                                        closed Mon & Sun eve
       impressive views of the town. The   q Treviso    MONTE GRAPPA
                                                        Osteria Forcelletto  inexpensive
       Museo Civico (closed Mon) contains   Veneto; 31100  Hearty country fare and views over the
       works by 19th-century sculptor   This charming walled market town-  Valsugana to the Asiago plateau.
       Canova. In Piazza Garibaldi stands   cum-city on the River Sile is scored   Località Forcelletto, 32030; 349 954
       the 11th-century Romanesque-  with waterways from the long-gone   4757; closed Tue & Mon–Fri in winter
       Gothic Chiesa di San Francesco.   days of canal navigation. Stroll east   BASSANO DEL GRAPPA
       ª Leave on Viale Venezia (SP248) for   along the banks to a poignant ”barge   Belvedere Ristorante del
       Asolo, turning left for “centro” after 16   cemetery”, where the old timber craft   Buon Ricordo  moderate
       km (10 miles). Park at Piazza Garibaldi.  were sunk when road transport took   Refined restaurant whose
                               over. The lively fish market has its own   specialities include pheasant.
       0 Asolo                 island, modelled by Venetian architect   Viale delle Fosse 1, 36061;
       Veneto; 31011           Carlo Scarpa (1906–78). One of   0424 524 988; www.bonotto.it
       The peaceful setting of this beautiful   Treviso’s claims to gastronomic fame   Antico Ristorante
       hillside town has long attracted   is that it invented the classic Italian   Cardellino  moderate
                                                        Try the baccala alla Vicentina, a local
       poets (Robert Browning), aristocrats   dessert tiramisù; it also purports to be   cod specality.
       (Caterina Cornaro, 15th-century   the home of radicchio (red chic ory)   Via Bellavitis 17, 36061; 0424 220 144;
       queen of Cyprus) and travellers   and pasta e fagioli (pasta/bean soup).  closed Sun
       (Freya Stark). A visit should start at           ASOLO
       Piazza Garibaldi, its fountain fed               Antica Osteria Al Bacaro  moderate
       by underground aqueducts that                    Enjoy spezzatino (stew) and baccalà
       once filled the Roman baths. Just                (salt cod) at wooden trestle tables.
       across the main street stands the                Via R Browning 165, 31011; 0423
       venerable Cattedrale. Pass through a             55150; closed Thu
       city door on Via Collegio and walk               TREVISO
       uphill to the 14th-century fort, La              Locanda Ponte Dante  moderate
       Rocca (open Sat & Sun), for views over           Close to the river, this eatery serves
       the town and lush countryside.                   stews, polenta, octopus and sardines.
       ª Return to SS248 and drive through              Piazza Garibaldi 6, 31100; 0422 178
       Montebelluna towards Conegliano.                 5946; closed Sun eve & Mon
       Turn right at the roundabout before              Toni da Spin  moderate
       Venegazzu onto SR348 and follow                  Historic trattoria in the town centre –
       signs straight to Treviso. Take the              try the pasta e fagioli for lunch.
                                                        Via Inferiore 7, 31100; 0422 543 829;
       first turn-off for “centro” and park             www.ristorante tonidelspin.com;
       at Viale Battisti.                               closed Mon lunch
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       Lunch at a mountain hut, then drive to   on to walled Feltre 7 with its historic
        Choose between the wonders of   San Vito di Cadore 3, with more   Renaissance centre. After lunch, drive
        nature and the man-made splendour   photo opportunities at the Ponte di   to Belluno 6 to explore its grand
        of the Renaissance.    Rualan. Drive on to Pieve di Cadore 4   palazzo-lined squares,16th-century
        Painterly landscapes   to see the place of Titian’s birth.  Duomo and Renaissance paintings.
        Using Cortina d’Ampezzo 1 as a base,   Follow the drive’s instructions.  Take the SP55 then the SS248 to Asolo.
        do a little shopping before heading           Retrace route back on SS248, then take
        up to the Cinque Torri 2. Work up an   Renaissance tour  SS348 to Feltre. Take the SS50, then SP1
        appetite climbing to see the views – if   From Treviso q, head to pretty Asolo   to Belluno. To return quickly, take SS50
        painting isn’t an option, take a photo.   0, the “pearl of the province”, then   north to A27. Take this south to Treviso.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


   126-129_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd   129                         06/11/17   5:30 pm
   126   127   128   129   130   131   132   133   134   135   136