Page 177 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 17: Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills 175

5 Castellina in Chianti
Siena, Toscana; 53011
The rolling hills of the Chianti have always separated Florence and
Siena, the two great Tuscan rivals for power. Barely touched over the
centuries, the fields and vineyards remain as they were when they
were first carved out by oxen. The towns, too, have changed little and
reflect the intense respect of their residents for the traditional values.

A one-hour walking tour Etruscan exhibits from the area. Head
Start from the car park with views east out of the square to the right past the
across the fields of Chianti. At the top trattoria La Torre. Take Vicolo della Above The Neo-Romanesque Church of San
of the steep entry ramp, join the main Rocca downhill to the main street, Salvatore, Castellina in Chianti
road that skirts the town. Follow this Via Ferruccio, which can get busy in
to the left, then on the right, on summer. Directly opposite is the PRODUCE IN THE VAL D’ARNO
the corner of Via delle Mura, Renaissance Palazzo
is Enoteca Poggio Amorelli Squarcialupi 4, now a Zolfino beans and Valdarno chicken –
1, below a square castle- fashionable hotel and the both local delicacies – as well as olive
like bastion – taste its wine store Fattoria La oil and Vin Santo can be bought from
Fattoria Casamora (Via di Casabiondo
wines or arrange a Castellina (0577 740454 ; 5, Pian di Scò 52026; 055 960 046; www.
vineyard visit. Continue www.lacastellina.it). Tastings casamora.it). For home-made yoghurt
along Via delle Mura up the and tours can be organized and cheeses, try La Capanna del Sole
hill to the Rocca della The black cockerel here. Over the road is a classic (Loc. Casamona, Loro Ciuffenna 52024;
Comune. Walk past insignia of Chianti butcher’s shop, Macelleria 335 574 7699; www.capannadelsole.it).
Call small farm suppliers before visiting.
Remembrance Park on the Stiaccini 5. Try a delicious
left, with valley views, and turn right panino con la finochiana (fennel EAT AND DRINK
into Piazza della Comune 2, salami sandwich). Slightly further up
dominated by the huge Rocca built the hill is the Tourist Office 6 (Apr– AROUND PONTE BURIANO
by the Medici to defend against Siena. Nov: open daily) for information on Il Grano Arso expensive
The entire town was once fortified, wineries and Etruscan tombs. If more Chef Andrea mixes local tradition with
but most of the walls and the gates refreshment is needed, the Chianti dishes from his native Apulia. .
are long gone. Left of the tower is the Bar, further uphill, provides simple Piazza Italia, 4R, 52029, Castiglion
Museo Archeologico del Chianti 3 snacks and wine by the glass. At the Fibocchi (Arezzo); 0575 1484731; www.
ilgranoarso.it; closed Mon & Tue lunch
(closed Wed), which contains mostly top of the street is the Church of San
Salvatore 7, which was rebuilt BORRO
after World War II. It contains a Osteria del Borro moderate
Church of 0 metres 70 fresco, Madonna Enthroned, by A romantic setting, this place specializes
San Salvatore in seafood and meat – superb
the pre-Renaissance artist
0 yards 70 gourmet treats from an open kitchen.
Lorenzo di Bicci (1373–1452). Via Pio Borri, 52024; 055 977 2333; www.
Piazza della Return to Via Ferruccio and take osteriadelborro.it; closed Wed in winter
Comune Tourist Office
the path to the left leading into
Museo Archeologico VIA SETTE PONTI
del Chianti Via delle Volte 8. This medieval Ristorante La Torre moderate
Macelleria Palazzo Squarcialupi enclosed walkway runs parallel
Stiaccini Located inside a medieval tower. The
Via delle Volte to Via Ferruccio and was used for fish dishes here are a highlight.
defensive and religious purposes. Via Alighieri, 20 Loro Ciuffenna 52024;
To the left, slit windows provide 055 917 2032; www.ilristorantelatorre.
glimpses of the countryside, and it; closed Mon
VIA FERRUCCI O
V I A D E L L E M U R A
Enoteca Poggio to the right some of the old
Amorelli GREVE IN CHIANTI
cellars have been turned into Da Verrazzano moderate
workshops and restaurants. The Enjoy Tuscan treats such as ribollita
walkway finally returns to Via (hearty soup), panzanella (tomato and
Ferruccio, close to the car park. bread salad) and good wine on a
splendid terrace overlooking the piazza.
ª Head south, turn left at Via Piazza Matteotti 28, 50022; 055 853
V I A A L D O M O R O del Mandorlo to SP102, then on to 189; www.ristoranteverrazzano.it;
V I A 4 N O V E M B R E
closed Sun pm/Mon & Jan
Vagliagli. Fork left to Monteliscai.
V I A L E D E L L A R I M E M B R A N Z A
At Via dei Ponti/SS408 turn left,
Parking then left again to Strada CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
Comunale di Catignano. Turn left La Torre moderate
Tuck into good traditional food in the
to Pievasciata, then left on Via del central piazza.
VIA E. BERLINGUER
Campana to the sculpture park. Piazza Umberto 1, 53011; 0577 740 236
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
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