Page 178 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

176 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above Radda in Chianti, once the capital city
of Chianti Above right Volpaia, known for its Wine tasting in Chianti ª On leaving the park turn left (north).
blooming flowers in early summer Vineyards are working enterprises, Drive 3 km (2 miles) on a dirt track. Turn
so try to book in advance for tours right, then left onto SP408. Turn right
COOKERY COURSES IN CHIANTI and tastings. Large operators usually towards Castelnuovo Berardenga; fork
have staff on hand, but smaller ones
Preparing food can be as much fun right, staying on SP484. Park on the left,
as drinking the wine that goes with may need to call someone who can opposite the Fattoria Castello Di Brolio.
speak English. However, driving
it, and at Tenuta Casanova (Loc.
Sant’Agnese 20, Castellina in Chianti around, visitors will see “cantina 7 Castello di Brolio
53011; www.tenutacasanova.it) they aperta” signs, which indicate that the
show how to do both with gusto and vineyard is open for tasting and Siena, Toscana; 53013
finesse. Or learn to cook a four-course buying wine. There is usually a small This small village is surrounded by an
Tuscan meal in the grand Villa Fattoria charge for a tour and tasting and enormous vineyard and castle with the
di Vistarenni (Loc. Vistarenni, Gaiole in this often includes snacks. same name that date back to the 10th
Chianti 53013; 0577 738 476; www.
villavistarenni.com), located between century and have been owned by the
Gaiole and Radda. 6 Chianti Sculpture Park Ricasoli family since then. Although it’s
Pievasciata, Siena, Toscana; 53010 now part of Siena, the castle (Mar–Nov:
WHERE TO STAY This contemporary sculpture park closed Mon) was a Florentine stronghold
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: call 0577 that was demolished by the Sienese
AROUND CHIANTI
SCULPTURE PARK 357151; www.chiantisculpturepark.it) is army, then completely rebuilt in the
Villa Astreo moderate in a superb setting of macchia scrub, 16th century. Baron Bettino Ricasoli
Each room in this exceptional and holm oak and pine trees. The one-hour (1809–80), who played a key role in
historic B&B has a truly individual style. trail visits 25 site-specific works by the Unification of Italy and was
Via Del Colombaione 4, Vagliagli di Italian and international artists, such twice Italy’s prime minister, gave it
Castelnuovo Berardenga 53010 (2km/1 as William Furlong’s Off the Beaten Track: its current mock-medieval style in
mile northeast of sculpture park); 0577 stainless-steel cubes that emit sounds the 19th century. There is still
322 624; www.astreo.it
of city life as you pass. Built in May evidence of a mortar attack from
AROUND CASTELLO DI BROLIO 2004, the park was the inspiration of World War II on the western wing.
Villa di Sotto inexpensive Rosalba and Piero Giadrossi, who are Taste the Baron’s highly regarded
This simple B&B, about 2 km (1 mile) often at the nearby gallery La Fornace. wines at the wine shop (open daily).
south of Brolio, offers genuine Italian
warmth and hospitality on the edge
of the sweet village of Villa a Sesta. Below The beautiful rolling hills of Chianti, dotted with vineyards
Via San Caterina 30, Villa a Sesta 53100;
347 932 7090; www.villadisotto.it
AROUND RADDA IN CHIANTI
Villa Fattoria di Vistarenni moderate
This historic villa, between Gaiole and
Radda, is a 16th-century residence
with original period furniture. Enjoy
B&B or even hire the entire estate.
Loc. Vistarenni, Gaiole in Chianti 53013;
0577 738 476; www.villavistarenni.com
VOLPAIA
La Locanda expensive
This rustic converted farmhouse in the
hills above Volpaia is a beautiful and
peaceful Tuscan retreat.
Loc. Montanino di Volpaia 53017; 0577
738 833; www.lalocanda.it
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont