Page 179 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 17: Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills 177

ª Return north on SP484, turn right at del Chianti/SP2bis (under SR429)
SP408 towards Gaiole. Fork left at SP2, towards Volpaia. Turn right on
then take SR429 into Radda in Chianti. SR114C, then right on SP112.
Turn right at Piazza 4 Novembre to park.
The famous Gallo Nero
8 Radda in Chianti Archduke Cosimo III chose the black
Siena, Toscana; 53017 cockerel – Gallo Nero – as the symbol
The capital of Chianti in the 14th for the area’s wine makers in the 18th
century as he was sick of arguments
century, tiny Radda still retains its about which was the “true” wine of
sense of import as one of the main Chianti. Since then, if the bottle has
towns in the Chianti League. Pride in an image of the Gallo Nero in a red
its history is revealed by the family circle on the label on its neck, then
heraldic shields that adorn the front it is Chianti Classico. However, it was Above Bell tower or campanile in the little
of the Palazzo di Podestà (now the Baron Ricasoli who first defined classic hamlet of Volpaia Below left The façade of
Chianti wine in 1874. It has to include
town hall) in Piazza Ferrucci. This was 75 per cent Sangiovese and 25 per the Palazzo di Podestà, Radda in Chianti
where the podestà or magistrate was cent Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes.
based. Across the square is the EAT AND DRINK
Chiesa di San Niccolo, its original
Romanesque design still evident 9 Volpaia NEAR CHIANTI SCULPTURE PARK
despite the fact that it was heavily Siena, Toscana; 53017 La Taverna Di Vagliagli moderate
remodelled in the last century. First mentioned in the 12th century, This restaurant, between Castellina
ª Drive back down the hill, turn right Volpaia was repeatedly damaged, and Pievasciata, offers an intimate,
at the roundabout onto Via La Strada then rebuilt as a result of its strategic elegant atmosphere with excellent
service, superb food and good wine.
position between warring Sienese Via del Sergente 4, Vagliagli 53019;
and Florentine forces. The walled 0577 322 532; closed Tue
village improved its economy during RADDA IN CHIANTI
a period of stability in the 16th Le Forchette del Chianti moderate
century. A central point for viniculture On the town wall overlooking the
in the area, the village is essentially a valley. Run by two sisters serving
large winery owned by the Stianti honest traditional Tuscan dishes
family. The village cellars, such as alongside a good wine list.
Viale Matteotti 5, 53017 ; 0577 738 923;
those in the crypt of 15th-century www.leforchettedelchianti.it; closed Thu
Commenda di Sant’Eufrosino (guided
tours by appointment; www.volpaia. VOLPAIA
com), designed by Michelozzo, La Bottega moderate
contain vast wooden barrels, a wine Come here for the hearty, unpretentious
bar, bottling plant and olive mill. The country cooking, great views from the
outdoor terrace and home-made cakes.
enoteca also sells a booklet mapping Piazza della Torre 1, 53017; 0577 735602;
out various countryside walks. www.labottegadivolpaia.it; closed Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Red, red wine Ancient history, modern art
There’s plenty to do in this area, from It’s impossible to avoid wine here. In From Greve in Chianti 4, explore the
a bird-watching picnic to a food and Castellina in Chianti 5, visit the medieval market town, then drive to
wine tour, and a historical trip looking Enoteca Poggio Amorelli for a quick Radda in Chianti 8, to see the
at ancient and modern life. brush-up on the local wines, then buy architecture of a once powerful city.
some snacks in the deli. Visit Radda in Then drive across to Castellina in
Walk on the wild side Chianti 8, then it’s off to Volpaia 9 Chianti 5 for a look at evidence of
Starting from Greve in Chianti 4 to explore its ancient wine cellars ancient Etruscan. Stay for lunch and
drive over to the Val d’Arno visiting and see its wine-production methods. a glass of wine, then head to the
the villages of the Via Sette Ponti 3 Finally, drive back to Castello di Brolio Chianti Sculpture Park 6, for a walk
and picking up some local produce 7, to visit the castle and vineyard around the outside modern art
along the way. Stop at Ponte Buriano owned by the famous Ricasoli family. sculptures in a natural setting.
1 and pick up a map from the visitor
centre to follow a trail through the From Castellina, take SR22, then SR429 From Greve in Chianti, take SR222
Regional Nature Reserve, stopping to Radda in Chianti, then through south then SP114c to Radda in Chianti.
for a picnic along the way. Radda turn left on SP2bis, right on Take the Via Strada del Chianti to
SP114c, SP112 to Volpaia. Return to Castellina in Chianti, then SR222 and
Follow the drive directions in reverse, then Radda, down SP2bis, SR429, SP114a, left SP102 to the Chianti Sculpture Park.
retrace the route at the end of the day. up SP408 and right on SP484 to Brolio. Retrace the journey to get home.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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