Page 55 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 3: Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces 53

LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS
For a scenic day trip, start from Stresa
with a leisurely ferry ride (tickets at
ferry stations and tourist offices) to the
end of the lake and into Switzerland
(passports are a must). Stroll through
lakeside Locarno and hop on board
the Centovalli express, a Swiss train
that passes through stunning Alpine
scenery to Domodossola, Italy. There is
time for a wander and a meal before
catching the train back to Stresa
(www.lagomaggioreexpress.it).
VISITING STRESA
From here, take Via Gemelli and turn reach the islands. Isola Bella (open Parking
left to the Sacro Monte di Francesco end-Mar–end-Oct) has a grand There is a large pay-and-display at
8 (open daily). Set on a hillside above Baroque palace with terraced gardens. Piazza Marconi by the ferry terminal.
the lake, with views to Isola di San Visit quieter Isola Madre (open end- Tourist Information
Giulio, this is a devotional path with Mar–end-Oct) for its 16th-century villa Piazza Marconi 16, 28838; 0323 30150;
21 chapels illustrating the life of and extensive gardens, with splendid www.distrettolaghi.it
St Francis of Assisi. Built between 1591 magnolias and camellias in spring. EAT AND DRINK
and 1750, the chapels contain 376 Isola dei Pescatori, also called Isola
sculptures and 900 frescoes and Superiore, is an erstwhile fisherman’s ORTA SAN GIULIO
alternate between Baroque and village of narrow lanes and higgedly- Al Boeuc inexpensive
Renaissance styles. The restaurant piggedly houses, now given over Away from the crowds, this cosy wine
here has a pretty, ivy-clad terrace. mainly to restaurants. bar serves delicious Piedmontese
Return to the car park on the train. A 5-minute stroll north of the centre cheese and affettati misti (cold cuts).
Via Bersani 28, 28016; 339 5840039;
ª Leaving Orta San Giulio, cross the of Stresa leads to the Lido, where a www.alboeuc.beepworld.it; closed Tue
roundabout to follow narrow SP114 cable car ascends Monte Mottarone, mid Mar–Oct; open by reservation only
past the station. Turn left on SP114, stopping halfway at the lovely Nov–mid-Mar
becoming SP39 later through Armeno. Giardino Botanico Alpinia (closed Villa Crespi expensive
Drive over the hill, past small villages, Oct–Mar). There are attractive walks This two-Michelin-starred restaurant, set
and down the narrow lanes to Stresa. at the summit and the 3-hour in a Moorish-style luxury hotel, serves
descent can be done on foot – or, if innovative Mediterranean cuisine.
Sacri Monti you prefer, by mountain bike. Via G Fava 18, 28016; 0322 911 902;
www.villacrespi.it
These devotional complexes are ª Take the lakeside SS33 northeast
made up of a series of chapels, lining out of Stresa to Fondotoce. Continue STRESA
a path to the top of a mountain. The along the waterside SS34 to Cannobio. Il Clandestino moderate
chapels illustrate the lives of Christ, Creative dishes using seasonal produce
the Saints or the Virgin Mary and are beautifully presented here. The fish
were built in beautiful locations over Top Pretty Isola di San Giulio, a short boat ride and seafood are particularly good.
the 16th and 17th centuries during from Orta San Giulio Below Statue of Carlo Via Rosmini 5, 28838; 0323 30399;
the Counter-Reformation. There are Borromeo, Arona Below right View from the www.ristoranteilclandestino.com
nine such complexes across northern cable car up Monte Mottarone, Stresa
Italy, all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

3 Stresa
Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, Piedmont; 28838
When the Simplon Tunnel opened in
1906, linking northern and southern
Europe by rail, sleepy lakeside Stresa
became a favourite of the European
nobility. The town is is now a sedate
place with grand hotels, manicured
gardens and a pedestrianized centre.
It is beautifully located with stunning
views up the lake to the Alps, and
across to the famous treasures of the
Borromean Islands. Take a ferry or boat
taxi from the Stresa landing stage to

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