Page 57 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 3: Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces 55

world. The resulting 7 km (4 miles) of 8 Arcumeggia
pathways meander through beds of Casalzuigno, Varese; Lombardia 21030
dahlias, camellias and rhododendrons, The stone houses and crumbling
past ponds with spectacular fountains courtyards of this mountain village
and giant lily pads and lotus flowers. are decorated with 20th-century
It all makes a wonderful retreat. frescoes. Figurative works by artists
ª Follow the road for 500 m (547 such as Aligi Sassu and Remo Brindisi
yards) to the Intra ferry station and adorn the façades of some houses as
catch the car ferry to Laveno. Take part of an ongoing regeneration
SS394 (signposted Gavirate) out of project that began in the 1950s.
Laveno to the roundabout in Fracce. ª Backtrack to the main road and
Continue on Via Valcuvia, turning left head east on SS394 to Rancio Valcúvia.
up Via Sciareda into Casalzuigno. Take SP62 southeast and climb up the
wooded Campo dei Fiori to Varese.
9 Varese
Varese, Lombardia; 21100
Nicknamed “The Garden City”, Varese
is a pleasing mix of early 20th-century
villas and 17th-century Baroque EAT AND DRINK
buildings set in verdant parks. At the
heart of the town’s pedestrianized CANNOBIO
centre is the Church of San Vittore and La Streccia moderate
its 12th-century frescoed baptistry. To Informal restaurant in a narrow alley-
way, serving Piedmontese dishes
the north of town (well signposted featuring mushrooms and game.
and with its own car park), the 18th- Via Merzagora 5, 28822; 0323 70575;
century Villa Panza (closed Mon) houses www.ristorantelastreccia.it; closed Thu
an impressive collection of contem- VERBANIA
porary art with site-specific installations
in the old stables and works by Dan Il Milano expensive
The dishes at this water side restaurant
Flavin. There are also landscaped combine creativity and local traditions.
gardens and a good café. Follow signs Corso Zanitello 2, 28922; 0323 556 816;
Above Manicured garden at Villa Taranto, Verbania north out of town along Via Virgilio www.ristorantemilanolagomaggiore.it;
Top right A cobbled street in Arcumeggia and Via Prima Cappella to the Campo closed Tue Jan–mid-Mar
dei Fiori national park, once a hunting VARESE
7 Casalzuigno ground for the medieval dukes of Bologna inexpensive–moderate
Varese, Lombardia; 21030 Milan. From the park’s ridge, the Via This classic trattoria serves traditional
Set in the chestnut-tree valley of Cúvia Sacra, a 2-km (1-mile) cobbled path, fare: the antipasto della casa (mixed hors
is the village of Casalzuigno, whose leads up the mountain past a series of d’oeuvres) is a delicious meal in itself.
main attraction is the 15th-century 16th- century chapels, containing life- Via Broggi 7, 21100; 0332 234 362;
www.albergobologna.it; closed Aug
Villa della Porta Bozzolo (closed mid- size scenes illustrating the Mystery of
Sep–Feb; Mar: Mon & Tue; Apr–mid-Sep: the Rosary. They form a Sacro Monte AROUND VARESE
Mon) and its 18th-century terraced that culminates in the Baroque Taverna delle Ruote inexpensive
gardens. The villa has frescoes, period Santuario di Santa Maria del Monte This country trattoria serves seasonal
kitchens and farm buildings. and the village of Santa Maria del produce and decent house wine.
ª Return to the main road and then Monte. A 3-minute funicular (open Via Marconi 29, Bedero Valcuvia (just
off the SP62, north of Varese), 21039;
left on SP7, up the steep switchback weekends and end Jul–end Aug) whisks 0332 724 572; www.tavernadelle
to Arcumeggia. less energetic visitors up the mountain. ruote.net; closed Tue eve & Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Borromean Islands Saints and swimmers
Stresa is a good base for exploring Catch a boat from Stresa 3 to Enjoy sweeping views of the lake
the area. Chugging across the lakes explore Isola Bella before moving on from the statue of San Carlone 1,
on a ferry really should not be missed. to Isola Madre for a picnic lunch, or then head to Orta San Giulio 2 for
Lake Maggiore Express Isola dei Pescatori for a meal of lake lunch. Catch a speedboat to its
island and have a dip in the lake
A very reasonably priced round trip fish at one of the waterside before driving to Stresa for dinner.
from Stresa 3, on a scenic rail and restaurants. Aim to return to Stresa
ferry route exploring the valleys and in the late afternoon, when the light Take the SP114 on the return trip,
towns on the Swiss–Italian border. on the water is particularly special. followed by the SP39.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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