Page 54 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

52 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 San Carlone from inside the statue’s head (Mar:
Arona, Piedmont; 28041 open Sun & hol; Apr–Sep: open daily);
Completed in 1698, one of Europe’s Oct–Nov: Sat, Sun & hol; Dec: Sun).
highest statues rises 35 m (115 ft) ª Turn west off S33 onto SP35 for
above the town of Arona. It is a Montrigiasco. Follow SP110 and SP34
monument to the archbishop of through Invório and Monticelli to
Milan, Carlo Borromeo, an important SP43. Follow signs to Gozzano till
figure in the Counter-Reformation. SS229. Turn right, heading north
Climb up inside for superb views along the lake to Orta San Giulio.

2 Orta San Giulio
Novara, Piedmont; 28016
Perched on a promontory, this medieval town, the jewel of Lago
Above View across the rooftops of Stresa and d’Orta, is a confection of frescoed pastel-coloured houses lining a
over Lago Maggiore maze of romantic cobbled alleys and piazzas. The traffic-free centre
VISITING ORTA SAN GIULIO makes exploring the island’s intriguing nooks and crannies a delight.
Parking
Use the car park by the tourist office (Via A two-hour walking tour remains are in the crypt. The only
Panoramica). From here, a tourist train From the car park and tourist office, street, Via del Silenzio, becoming
heads to the centre and Sacro Monte. walk south along Via Fava to the the Via della Meditazione, leads past
Tourist Information Moorish fantasy hotel Villa the Benedictine convent
Via Panoramica, 28016; 0322 905163; Crespi 1 (www.villacrespi.it). Palazzo dei Vescovi. The
www.distrettolaghi.it; closed Mon, Tue Follow the lakeside road to abbess has put up signs
the main square, Piazza encouraging meditation
WHERE TO STAY
Motta 2, with cafés, shops on “the island within”.
ORTA SAN GIULIO and hotels and a weekly Back at Piazza Motta,
Leon d’Oro moderate–expensive market held since 1228. The take the Salita della Motta,
This family-run three-star hotel has 16th-century town hall, a stepped lane past the
en-suite rooms and a lakeside location. Palazzo della Comunità 3, late-Renaissance Palazzo
Piazza Motta 42, 28016; 0322 911 991; holds art shows and Statue of St Francis of Gemelli 5 and other
closed Jan; www.albergoleondoro.it nearby Rovera (Largo de Assisi, Orta San Giulio elegant palazzi such as the
STRESA Gregori 15; 0322 90123) is a Casa dei Nani (House of
Hotel Verbano moderate–expensive trove of local delicacies and wines. Dwarves) 6. Orta’s oldest house,
On the northernmost of the Borromean From the piazza, take a boat to Isola dating from the 14th century, this
Islands, this romantic, 12-bedroom di San Giulio 4. Legend has it that, in building takes its name from its four
hotel is handsomely furnished. Once AD 390, Giulio, a Christian preacher, tiny windows. Passing by houses in a
the last boat has gone, the island is all
yours. Via Ugo Ara 2, 28838, Isola dei rid the island of its dragons and profusion of architectural styles, head
Pescatori; 0323 304 08; closed Nov–mid- serpents and built the Romanesque up to the 15th-century Baroque
Mar; www.hotelverbano.it Basilica di San Giulio (open daily) – his church Santa Maria Assunta 7.

0 metres 200
VIA BAGRERA
0 yards 200 BOSSI VIA ETTO RE V I A P A N O R A M I C A
VIA MADRE TERESA DI CALCUTTA
Santa Maria Sacro Monte V I A S A C R O MO N T E
Assunta di Francesco
SALITA
Palazzo della DELLA MOTTA V I A SAC R O M O N T E
Comunità Palazzo S T R A D A D E L S A C R O M O N T E
Casa Gemelli V I A P A N O R A M I C A
Piazza dei Nani
Motta
Isola di PI A Z ZA MARI O M O T TA V I A G E M E L L I
San Giulio V I A S A N Q U I R I C O Villa Crespi
V I A G I U S E P P E F A V A STRADA DI ORTELLO V I A N O VA R A
Lak e Or ta V I A G I A C O M O G I O V A N N E T T I

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

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