Page 77 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 6: Switchbacks and Limonaie 75

1 Arco
TRENTINO- Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige
Lago
di Tenno AL TO ADIGE The Castello (Jan: open Sat & Sun, Feb–
ARCO Dec: open daily) atop the rocky outcrop
Pranzo Tenno looming over Arco was built in the
Bolognano
Pieve Campi Varone 12th century, and the 30-minute wan-
der up to it from the central Piazza 11
di Ledro Cima d’Oro
1802m Novembre affords panoramic views.
Mezzolago RIVA DEL GARDA
Lago Arco became a popular winter retreat
di Ledro Nago in the 19th century, when, as part of
Molina
di Ledro Torbole
the Austrian Empire, its mild climate
Pregasina a Loppio attracted Central European aristocracy.
Monte Tremalzo d Explore the wonderful public gardens
1975m r on Viale delle Palme and an impressive
a
G arboretum in the Parco Arciducale
Arboreto (open daily), which formed
Limone
Cima del Fratone the grounds of the Habsburg
1785m sul Garda
San Michele Archduke Albert’s winter palace.
Monte Caplone Vesio ª Follow the well-signposted SS45b Above left Living on the edge in Pieve
1976m Navene for 6 km (4 miles) to reach the centre 17 km (11 miles). Take the second right Above The Castello di Arco, high above

PIEVE PORTO TO PIEVE: of Riva del Garda, from where the car turn for Tremosine up SP38. the town
PIEVE TO TIGNALE SP38 parks are clearly signposted.
Cadria Arias i 3 Porto to Pieve: SP38
Turano SANTUARIO Prabione d Malcesine 2 Riva del Garda Brescia, Lombardia

DELLA MADONNA
Valvestino DI MONTECASTELLO Campione Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige; 38066 When the SP38 opened in 1913, the

del Garda VISITING ARCO
LOMBARDIA Tignale Val di Sogno Always a strategic trading post, and German newspaper Frankfurter
Costa Piovere part of the Venetian, then the Austro- Zeitung dubbed it “the most beautiful Tourist Information
Lago di Hungarian Empire until 1918, this fine road in the world”. Linking isolated Viale del Palme 1, 38062; 0464 532 255;
Valvestino Monte Denervo o www.gardatrentino.it
1460m g lakeside resort of cobbled piazzas, mountain communities with the lake,
a stone buildings and atmospheric this exhilarating road switchbacks
L Brenzone lanes is now a focus for watersports, through narrow tunnels and wooded VISITING RIVA DEL GARDA
with windsurfing and sailing oppor- valleys, squeezing impos sibly through Tourist Information
GARGNANO VENETO tunities galore. Offering beautiful the spectacular Brasa gorge, and Largo Medaglie d’Oro 5, 38066; 0464
Monte Navazzo 554 444; www.gardatrentino.it
Pizzocolo views of Lago di Garda, the town’s up to the green hills of Tremosine.
1581m broad Piazza 3 Novembre is lined with The SP38 has been the setting for
Bogliaco VISITING PIEVE
porticoed buildings and watched over numerous car commercials, as well
by the 13th-century Torre Apponale. as breathtaking car chases in the Tourist Information
Pai
To the west, above the waterfront, is Bond film Quantum of Solace. Piazza Marconi 1, 25010; Tremosine;
the 12th-century Bastione, built by ª Follow SP38 for about 6 km (4 miles) 0365 953 185; www.infotremosine.it,
www.gardalombardia.com
the Venetians in 1508, on Monte from the lake to Pieve at the top of the
Rocchetta. The pleasant walk up to mountain, where many village centre
this ruined fortress is rewarded with car parks are signposted. WHERE TO STAY IN
RIVA DEL GARDA
sensational views over the lake.
ª Leave Riva on SS45bis, heading 4 Pieve Restel de Fer inexpensive
south past Limone sul Garda, for about Tremosine, Brescia, Lombardia; 25010 Owned by the friendly Menghelli family
One of the many hillside villages in for more than 600 years, this farmhouse
the comune of Tremosine, Pieve has offers a handful of atmospherically
an attractive centre of stone-built furnished rooms. The locally sourced
food in the restaurant is also excellent.
houses. At 350 m (1,148 ft) above the Via Restel de Fer 10, 38066;
lake, there are wonderful views across 0464 553 481; www.resteldefer.com
the sparkling waters to Monte Baldo
opposite. The town’s church has an EAT AND DRINK IN
11th-century Romanesque bell tower RIVA DEL GARDA
but its main building, built later, is lit
by Murano glass chandeliers, adding Osteria il Gallo moderate
to its elegant Baroque interior. This friendly, informal eatery in Riva
ª From the centre, head southwest centre serves hearty dishes of polenta,
out of town, following the signposted dumplings and home-made pasta,
accompanied by good local wines.
route to the next village, Arias, and Piazza San Rocco 12, 38066; 0464 556
then on towards Tignale. 200; www.osteriailgallo.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
074-075_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 75 21/09/17 11:16 am