Page 79 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 6: Switchbacks and Limonaie 77

notably the luxurious Villa Feltrinelli abandoned olive oil factory on the
5, now a top-class hotel, but formerly right. This scrubby path leads back
home to the Fascist leader Benito to the car park, from where Via
Mussolini and his family during the Donatore di Sangue branches off to
Republic of Salò (see p83). Continue the Escola Materna Feltrinelli, an
along the peaceful lane, past olive infant school, on the left and the
groves and occasional glimpses of working limonaie on the right, on the
the lake, to reach a large limonaie other side of the main road (the
and the tiny Romanesque chapel of SS45bis). The shady cobbled lane
San Giacomo di Calino 6. This continues into the charming
11th-century church is one of the neighbourhood of Villa 7, which
oldest on the lake. It is a peaceful has a couple of hotels and a tiny
place, with a 14th-century fresco of picture-postcard port with a popular
St Christopher on the lakeside wall, bar. Down at Via Colletta 44 8, a
opposite the tiny shingle beach. This plaque declares that DH Lawrence
lovely spot is ideal for a picnic. lived here with his lover Frieda over
Return to the harbour in the village the winter of 1912–13 while writing
centre and take the lakeside lane Twilight in Italy, an evocative piece
round Hotel Gargnano, where the on village life and the beauty of this Above Stone buildings of pretty Gargnano
English novelist DH Lawrence spent area. Retrace your steps to the car. Below right View of the Riviera di Limonaie
a night in 1912. Continue along the Bottom left Limonaie along the shoreline of
walkways, past the waterfront villas Lemon Cultivation Lake Garda Below left Lemon souvenirs from
and their boathouses, keeping the In the 13th century, Franciscan the Riviera di Limonaie
monks founded a monastery in
Gargnano and introduced citrus eat and drink in GarGnanO
San Giacomo
di Calino cultivation to the Lake Garda area.
Limonaie, or purpose-built terraces Miralago moderate
This lakefront restaurant serves well-
V I A MUSLO N E V I A DEGL I O L EANDR I VI A S A N G I A C O M O the plants during the winter months. service is relaxed and professional.
for growing lemon trees, were intro-
judged fish and seafood dishes. The
duced in the 17th century to protect
Via Zanardelli 5, 25084; 0365 71209;
Dotted on the hillsides, these
closed Tue, Jan & Feb
V I A R E PU B B L I C A Villa Feltrinelli scale had ended by the 20th stylish dining room and knowledgeable
skeletal structures have brick walls
and terraced lines of narrow pillars.
La Tortuga expensive
Citrus farming on a commercial
This Michelin-starred restaurant has a
V I A RIME M B R A N Z A V I A R I M E M B R A N Z A
century, because of blight and
staff. The wines are well priced.
cheaper alternatives, but some
Via XXIV Maggio 5, 25084; 0365 71251;
www.ristorantelatortuga.it; closed Tue
limonaie are still open to the public.
& Nov–1st wk Mar
Lago di
Garda
A R EPU B B L I C A Beach
Palazzo Feltrinelli
V I A D E L L A L I B E R TÀ V I 0 metres 500 500
PIAZZA
FELTRINELLI Palazzo Comunale
V IA RO MA
Church of San Francesco
0 yards
Villa
Via Colletta 44

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

BRNI_076-077_CatDrive6.indd 77 02/09/14 2:16 PM