Page 84 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

82 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

VISITING SALÒ
1 Salò resort of Gardone. A controversial
Parking Brescia, Lombardia; 25087 figure, he was known for his affair
There are pay-and-display parking sites An attractive and historic town, Salò with the actress Eleanor Dusé and,
around town, although the multi-storey
car park on Via Brunati is the best bet. basks in its own sunny bay on the more famously, his fiery relationship
western shore of Lake Garda. For more with Mussolini, for whom he wrote
Tourist Information
Piazza Sant’Antonio 4, 25087; 030 374 than 400 years it was the capital of the the (meaningless) Fascist war cry “Eia,
87 45; www.rivieradeilimoni.it communities known as the Magnifica eia, eia! Alalà!” It is an egocentric place
Patria, which were under Venetian cluttered with the poet’s possessions,
VISITING TORRI DEL BENACO domination until the Republic’s fall in which range from a gilded tortoise
Parking 1797. The town briefly came to the fore to the prow of the boat Puglia, which
The main car park is immediately again during World War II when Hitler D’Annunzio commanded during
opposite the ferry point on the south and Mussolini made it the capital of World War I – and his own macabre
side of town. It is free out of season the Republic of Saló (see right). Fronting mausoleum. Concerts are performed
and pay and display at other times.
the handsome lakeside promenade, in the amphitheatre in summer.
Tourist Information Lungolago Zanardelli, is the porticoed ª Return to the main road and turn
Via Gardesana, 37010; 045 62 96 482;
www.tourism.verona.it 16th-century town hall, Palazzo della left onto Via Roma (SS45bis). Continue
Magnifica Patria, not far from the into Toscolano-Maderno and catch the
unfinished Renaissance Duomo. car ferry (traghetto), signed to the right.
WHERE TO STAY ª Follow Via Trento (SS45bis) NE out
of town through Gardone to a signed 3 Torri del Benaco
AROUND IL VITTORIALE left turn to Il Vittoriale and car park. Verona, Veneto; 37010
Hotel Villa Florida moderate The swallow-tail battlements of the
This hotel has small suites and 2 Il Vittoriale degli Italiani
apartments, plus gardens and a pool. Castello Scaligero guard the pretty
Corso Zanardelli 113, 25083; 0365 Brescia, Lombardia; 25083 little harbour at Torri del Benaco. The
21836; www.hotelvillaflorida.com; The extravagant home and gardens castle offers wonderful views from its
closed mid-Oct–Mar of the poet and nationalist hero towers and an engaging museum on
Hotel Bolsone expensive Gabriele d’Annunzio sprawl across olive cultivation and local fishing
This secluded 15th-century manor the hillside above the belle époque methods, as well as information about
house is set high above Lake Garda and
has six rooms. No children under 12.
Via Panoramica 23, 25083; 0365 21 022; Below left Café-lined harbour front at Lazise Below right San Severo church frescoes, Bardolino
www.dimorabolsone.it; closed Nov–Feb Bottom Grotte di Catullo, ruins of a 1st-century AD Roman settlement with lake views at Sirmione
TORRI DEL BENACO
Garnì Onda inexpensive
All rooms here have balconies or
terraces. A good breakfast is included.
Via per Albisano 28, 37010; 045 722
5895; www.garnionda.com; closed
mid-Nov–Mar
Hotel del Porto moderate
Located lakeside, this hotel offers stylish
rooms and even swisher bathrooms.
Self-catering suites are also available.
Lungolago Barbarani 6, 37010; 045 722
5051; www.hoteldelportolagodigarda.
it; closed Nov–Mar
SIRMIONE
Grifone moderate
Five-star lake views compensate for
the no-frills rooms at this friendly hotel.
Via Bocchio 4, 25019; 030 916 014;
www.sirmionehotelgrifone.it; closed
mid-Jan–mid-Mar
AROUND SAN MARTINO
DELLA BATTAGLIA
Selva Capuzza inexpensive
Selva Capuzza has a winery, self-catering
apartments and a good restaurant.
Agriturismo Borgo San Donino, 25015
Desenzano del Garda (just outside San
Martino della Battaglia); 030 991 0279;
www.selvacapuzza.it; closed mid Jan-
mid Feb

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