Page 111 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

VENICE І 109

millionairess Peggy Guggenheim of his life. It was completed in
(1898–1979), a collector, dealer 1687, five years after his death.
and patron of the arts who The interior consists of a large
befriended, and then furthered octagonal space below the
the careers of, many innovative cupola and six chapels radiating
abstract and Surrealist artists. One from the ambulatory. The large
was Max Ernst, who became her domed chancel and grandiose
second husband. The collection high altar dominate the view
consists of 200 fine paintings and from the main door.
sculptures, each representing the The altar’s sculptural group
20th century’s most influential by Giusto Le Corte represents
modern art move ments. The the Virgin and Child giving
dining room has notable Cubist protection to Venice from the
works of art, including The Poet plague. The best of the paintings
by Pablo Picasso, and an entire are in the sacristy to the left of
room is devoted to Jackson The large Baroque church of Santa Maria the altar: Titian’s early altarpiece
Pollock, who was “discovered” della Salute of St Mark Enthroned with Saints
by Guggenheim. Cosmas, Damian, Roch and
Other artists repres ented are u Santa Maria Sebastian (1511–12) and his
Braque, Chagall, della Salute dramatic ceiling paintings of Cain
de Chirico, Dalí, and Abel, The Sacrifice of Abraham
Duchamp, Léger, Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4. Tel 041 and Isaac and David and Goliath
Kandinsky, Klee, 241 10 18. 4 Salute. Open 9am–noon, (1540–9). The Wedding at Cana
Mondrian, Miró, 3–5:30pm daily; sacristy: 10am–noon, (1551) on the wall opposite the
3–5pm (Apr & May: 10am–5pm Mon–
Malevich, Rothko, Sat). May be closed mornings of entrance is by Jacopo Tintoretto.
Bacon and religious holidays. & to sacristy. ^
Magritte, whose
Surreal Empire of This great Baroque church i Punta della
Light (1953–4) standing at the entrance of the Dogana
shows a night scene Grand Canal is one of the most
of a darkened house imposing architectural land- Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4–B4.
in a wooded setting marks of Venice. Henry James Tel 199 139 139; 041 271 90 39 from
with a bright day sky likened it to “some great lady outside Italy. 4 Salute. Open 10am–
above. The sculpture on the threshold of her salon”. 7pm Wed–Mon (ticket counter closes
at 6pm). Closed 25 Dec. & ^
collection, which Santa Maria della Salute was ∑ palazzograssi.it
includes Constantin built in thanksgiving for the
Brancusi’s elegant city’s deliverance from the The magnificent 17th-century
Maiastra (1912), plague epi demic of 1630; Punta della Dogana (formerly a
Maiastra by is laid out in the hence the name Salute, which customs house) was restored by
Constantin house and garden. means “health and salvation”. Japanese architect Tadao Ando
Brancusi Perhaps the most Each November, in cele- and opened in 2009 as a con-
provoc ative piece is bration, worshippers light tem po rary art gallery. Together
Marino Marini’s Angelo della candles and approach across with the Palazzo Grassi, it houses
Città (Angel of the Citadel, a bridge of boats spanning the French billionaire François
1948), located on the terrace the mouth of the Grand Canal Pinault’s large collection of
overlooking the Grand Canal. for the occasion. con tem po rary art. Many well-
This shows a prominently Baldassare Longhena started known artists are represented
displayed man sitting on a the church in 1630 at the age of here, including Jeff Koons and
horse, erect in all respects. 32, and worked on it for the rest Takeshi Murakami.
The Guggenheim is the best
place in the city to see 20th-
century art. Light-filled rooms
and the large modern canvases
provide a striking contrast to the
Renaissance paintings in most
Venetian churches and museums.
The garden has been paved
and features an array of
sculptures. Peggy Guggenheim’s
ashes are also preserved here. A
shop and restaurant are located
within the grounds. Check the
website for information on
temporary exhibits. Punta della Dogana, a contemporary art museum

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