Page 406 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

404  ROME AND LAZIO

2 Sant’Ivo alla 5 Santa Maria della
Sapienza Pace
Corso del Rinascimento 40. Map 2 F4. Vicolo del Arco della Pace 5.
Tel 06 06 08 (tourist information). Map 2 E3. @ 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.
@ 30, 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 492, 628. Open 9–11:45am Mon, Wed & Sat. 7
Open 9am–noon Sun. 7
Named by Pope Sixtus IV to
Hidden in the courtyard of Side relief of the Ludovisi Throne, on display celebrate the peace he hoped
Palazzo della Sapienza, seat of in the Palazzo Altemps to bring to Italy, this church
the old University of Rome, dates from the 1480s and
Sant’Ivo’s spiral belfry is 4 Palazzo Altemps contains a beautiful fresco
nevertheless a distinctive Via di Sant’Apollinare 46. Map 2 E3. by Raphael. Bramante’s
landmark on Rome’s skyline. Tel 06 39 96 77 00. @ 70, 81, 87, 115, refined cloister was added in
Built by Borromini in 1642–60, 280, 628. Open 9am–7:45pm Tue– 1504, while the façade was
the church is astonishingly Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 designed in 1656 by Pietro
complex, an ingenious = 7 da Cortona.
combination of concave and
convex surfaces. The work An extraordinary collection of 6 Chiesa Nuova
spanned the reigns of three Classical sculpture is housed in
popes, and incorporated in the this branch of the Museo Via del Governo Vecchio 134.
design are their emblems: Nazionale Romano (see p416). Map 2 E4. Tel 06 687 52 89.
Urban VIII’s bee, Innocent X’s Restored as a museum during @ 46, 64. Open 7:30am–noon, 4:30–
dove and olive branch, and the the 1990s, the palazzo 7pm daily. 7
star and hills of Alexander VII. was originally built
for Girolamo San Filippo Neri commissioned
Riario, nephew this church in 1575 to replace
3 San Luigi dei of Pope Sixtus IV the dilapidated one given to
Francesi in 1480. In the his Order by Pope Gregory XIII.
popular uprising Neri required his followers to
Piazza di San Luigi de’ Francesi 5. that followed the humble themselves,
Map 2 F4 & 10 D2. Tel 06 68 82 71. pope’s death in and set aristocratic
@ 70, 81, 87, 116, 186, 492, 628. 1484, the building young men
Open 10am–12:30pm, 3–7pm daily was sacked and to work as
(Thu: am only). ^
Girolamo fled the labourers
The French national church city. In 1568 Cardi- on the church.
in Rome, San Luigi is a nal Marco Sittico Against his
16th-century building, best Altemps bought wishes, the nave,
known for three magnificent the palazzo; it was apse and dome
canvases by Caravaggio in the renovated in the were richly frescoed
Cerasi chapel. Painted between 1570s by Martino after his death
1597 and 1602, these were Longhi the by Pietro da
Caravaggio’s first significant Elder, who Cortona. There
religious works: The Calling of added the are three
St Matthew, Martyrdom of St obelisk- paintings by
Matthew and St Matthew and crowned belvedere Galata’s Suicide in the Rubens around the
the Angel. The first version of and marble unicorn. Palazzo Altemps altar. The first versions
this last was initially rejected The Altemps family were rejected, so
because it depicted the saint were avid collectors; the court- Rubens repainted them on
as an old man with dirty feet. yard and its staircase are lined slate, placing the originals
with ancient above his mother’s tomb.
sculptures, which
complement the
Ludovisi sculp tures. 7 Palazzo della
One of the high- Cancelleria
lights is the marble
statue Galata’s Piazza della Cancelleria. Map 2 E4.
Suicide, a copy of Tel 06 69 88 75 66. @ 46, 62, 64, 116,
the original in the 916. Open 7:30am–8pm Mon–Sat,
9:30am–7:30pm Sun & hols.
Salone del Camino.
On the first floor is A supreme example of the
the Greek, 5th-cen- confident delicacy of early
tury-BC Ludovisi Renaissance architecture, this
Detail from Caravaggio’s The Calling of St Matthew Throne, with a panel palazzo was begun in 1485, and
(1597–1602) in San Luigi dei Francesi depicting Aphrodite. was allegedly financed by the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp573–6 and pp596–600

404-405_EW_Italy.indd 404 4/4/17 5:36 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm