Page 175 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily
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NOR THEASTERN  SICIL Y      173

       q Acireale
       Road map F3. * 53,000. V Catania
       Stazione, Centrale Piazza San Giovanni
       XXIII. @ Messina–Catania. n Via
       Scionti 15 (095-895 249). _ San
       Sebastiano (Jan); Carnival, tra-
       ditionally costumed procession (Good
       Friday & Aug); Santa Venere (Jul).
       Acireale stands on a lava terrace
       overlooking the Ionian Sea in the
       midst of citrus orchards. Since
       Roman times it has been famous
       as a spa town with sulphur baths.
       The present name of the town
       refers to the myth, sung by Virgil
       and Ovid, of the cyclops
       Polifemo, the shepherd Aci and
       the nymph Galatea. It is the
       largest town on the eastern side
       of Mount Etna and has been
       destroyed time and again by
       eruptions and earthquakes. It
       was finally rebuilt after the 1693
       earthquake, emerging as a jewel
       of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
       The heart of town is Piazza
       Duomo, with its cafés and ice-  The Chiesa Madre at Zafferana Etnea, on the eastern slopes of Etna
       cream parlours. Acireale is
       dominated by its Cathedral, built   w Zafferana Etnea   permanent agricultural fair
       in the late 1500s. The façade has   Road map E3. * 8,000. @ AST bus   which, besides selling local wine
       two cusped bell towers covered   from Catania (095-746 10 96). n Pro   and produce, has old farm
            with multicoloured   Loco, Piazza L Sturzo 1 (095-708 28 25).  implements on display.
            majolica tiles. The
            Baroque portal leads   Famous for its honey, Zafferana   Environs
            to the vast interior   Etnea lies on the eastern slopes   Down the road towards
            with its frescoed   of Etna and is one of the towns   Linguaglossa is Sant’Alfio, a
            vaults. In the right-  most often affected by recent   town surrounded by vineyards
            hand transept is the   lava flows. The most destructive   and known for the huge 2,000-
            Cappella di Santa   eruptions occurred in 1852,   year-old tree called “Castagno
            Venera, the patron   when the lava reach ed the edge  dei cento cavalli” (Chestnut tree
            saint of the town. On   of town, and in 1992. The heart   of 100 horses). According to
            the transept floor is a   of Zafferana is its large tree-  legend, the leaves of this
            meri dian marked out   lined main square, dominated   famous tree once protected
            in 1843 by a Danish   by the Baroque Chiesa Madre.   Queen Jeanne d’Anjou and her
            astronomer. Piazza   The square is also the home of a   retinue of 100 knights.
             Duomo also boasts
    Baroque detail,   the Palazzo   I Malavoglia
      Acireale  Comunale, with a
             Gothic door and a   Published in 1881 in Milan,
       fine wrought-iron bal cony, and   I Malavoglia (The House by the
       Santi Pietro e Paolo, built in the   Medlar Tree) is a masterpiece
       17th century. Close by is the   by novelist Giovanni Verga (see
       Teatro dei Pupi, known for its   p26) and of Italian verismo. Set
       puppet shows, and the   on the Riviera dei Ciclopi at Aci
       Pinacoteca dell’Accademia   Trezza, it describes the harsh life
       Zelantea, with works by local   of fishermen and their constant
       painter Pietro Vasta, whose   struggle with the sea. The
       paintings also appear in the   Toscano family, “I Malavoglia”,    The beach at Aci Trezza, the setting for
       town’s churches. The main street,   are “all good seafaring people,   I Malavoglia (1881)
       Corso Vittorio Emanuele,   just the opposite of their
       crosses squares such as Piazza   nickname” (malavoglia means ill-will). In 1947 Luchino Visconti
       Vigo, with Palazzo Pennisi di   made a film inspired by the book, La Terra Trema.
       Floristella and San Sebastiano.




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