Page 296 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
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294      THE  IBERIAN  PENINSULA


                           are the handsome Plaza de la
                           Constitución and the church of
                           Santa María del Coro, with its
                           Baroque portal. Behind the old
                           town, Monte Urgull is worth
                           climbing for the superb views
                           from its summit. At the foot of
                           the hill, the Museo de San Telmo
                           holds exhibits including works
                           by El Greco.
                             The Playa de la Concha is one
                           of the most famous beaches in
                           Spain. As it curves around the
                           Bay of La Concha, it becomes   Bulls scattering the runners during
                           the Playa de Ondarreta, at the   Sanfermines in Pamplona
                           end of which is Eduardo   y Pamplona
       Frank Gehry’s ultramodern Museo   Chillida’s beautiful sculpture, the
       Guggenheim building in Bilbao  Comb of the Winds. The Palacio   Navarra. * 196,000. k £ @
                           Miramar (1889), built for Queen   n C/San Saturnino 2 (948-42 07 00).
       r Bilbao            María Cristina, is a venue for the   _ Sanfermines (Jul 6–14).
       Vizcaya. * 354,000. k g £ @   world-famous film festival.
       n Plaza Circular 1 (944-79 57 60).      Supposedly founded by the
       _ Fiesta (third week Aug).  E Museo de San Telmo  Roman general, Pompey,
                           Plaza Zuloaga. Tel 943-48 15 80.    Pamplona is most famous for
       Bilbao (Bilbo) is the center of   Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.    the fiesta of Los Sanfermines,
       Basque industry and Spain’s   & (free Tue). 7 8  with its daredevil bull running.
       leading commercial port, yet it           West of the city’s mainly
       has many cultural attractions           Gothic cathedral lies the old
       worth visiting. In the city’s           Jewish quarter, with the Neo-
       medieval quarter – the Casco            classic Palacio del Gobierno
       Viejo – the Museo Arqueológico,         de Navarra and the medieval
       Etnográfico e Histórico Vasco           Iglesia de San Saturnino.
       displays Basque art and folk              The Museo de Navarra is a
       artifacts, while in the newer town,     museum of regional history,
       the Museo de Bellas Artes is one        archaeology, and art.
       of Spain’s best art museums.              Southeast of the center is
         The jewel in Bilbao’s cultural        Felipe II’s massive citadel,
       crown, however, is the Museo            erected in the 16th century.
       Guggenheim Bilbao, which has
       a superb collection of Modern           E Museo de Navarra
       and contemporary art. It is just        Calle Santo Domingo. Tel 848-42 64
       one of the city’s many pieces    Mural by Josep Maria Sert in the Museo de   93. Open Tue–Sun. & free Sat pm,
       of modern architecture, which   San Telmo, San Sebastián  Sun. 7 8 by appointment.
       also include the striking Palacio
       de la Música y Congresos
       Euskalduna.          Basque Culture
                            The Basques are one of the oldest people in Europe. Long isolated in
       E Museo Guggenheim   their mountain villages, they have preserved their unique language
       Av Abandoibarra. Tel 944-35 90 00.   (Euskera), myths, and art – almost untouched by outside influences –
       Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Jul & Aug:   for millennia. Many families still live in the stone caseríos, or
       daily). Closed public hols. & 0 8    farmhouses, built by their
       d 7 ∑ guggenheim-bilbao.es
                            forebears. Among the most
                            popular exponents of Basque
       t San Sebastián      cultural life are the bertsolaris, oral
                            poets, originally from rural areas,
       Guipúzcoa. * 185,000. £ @    who improvise verses and who
       n Boulevard 8 (943-48 11 66).    are still very popular among the
       _ International Film Festival (late Sep).  younger generations. Though
                            the Basque region has had its
       Popular with the aristocracy,    own parliament since 1975 (as all
       San Sebastián (Donostia)   other Spanish regions), there has
       became a fashionable seaside   always been a strong separatist   The Ikurriña, the flag of the
                            movement seeking to sever links
       resort in the late 19th century.   with the government in Madrid.  Basque region
       At the heart of the old town
       For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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