Page 402 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
P. 402

400      IT AL Y  AND  GREECE


       6 Bargello                              Of the church’s many chapels,
                                               the most famous is the Bardi
       Via del Proconsolo 4. Tel 055-238 86    Chapel, decorated by Giotto
       06. @ A, 14. Open daily. Closed 1st,
       3rd & 5th Mon and 2nd & 4th Sun of      with frescoes of the life of St.
       each month, Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. &     Francis (1315–23). The Peruzzi
       7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it              Chapel houses further Giotto
                                               frescoes. Gaddi’s 1338 fresco
       Florence’s second-ranking               in the Baroncelli Chapel of an
       museum after the Uffizi, the            angel appearing to sleeping
       Bargello houses Italy’s finest          shepherds is notable as the first
       collection of Renaissance               true night scene in Western art.
       sculpture and some superb                 In the cloister alongside the
       Mannerist bronzes. Begun in             church is Brunelleschi’s Cappella
       1255, the fortress-like building        de’ Pazzi (Pazzi Chapel), a
       was initially the town hall but         masterpiece of Renaissance
       later home to the chief of police       architecture. The delicate gray
       (the Bargello). The renovated           stonework of the domed
       building opened as one of Italy’s       chapel is set off by white plaster,
       first national museums in 1865.  Gaddi’s night scene fresco in the Baroncelli   which is inset with terra-cotta
         The key exhibits range over   Chapel, Santa Croce  roundels of the Evangelists by
       three floors, beginning with the        Luca della Robbia.
       Michelangelo Room. Here   ceramics, silverware, and other
       visitors can admire Bacchus   objets d’art. The Salone del   8 Piazza della
       (1497), the sculptor’s first large   Camino on the second floor
       free-standing work, a delicate   holds the finest collection    Signoria
           circular relief depicting   of small bronzes in Italy.   @ A, B.
            the Madonna and   Benvenuto Cellini (1500–71)
             Child (1503–5), and   is among the artists featured.  Piazza della Signoria has been at
              Brutus (1539–40),                the heart of Florence’s political
               his only known   7 Santa Croce   and social life for centuries.
                portrait bust.                 Citizens were once summoned
                Among other   Piazza di Santa Croce. Tel 055-246 61   to public meetings here, and
                sculptors’   05. @ C, 14, 23. Open daily (Sun: pm   the square’s statues celebrate
               works in the   only). & 7 ∑ santacroceopera.it  events in the city’s history. That
              same room is                     of Grand Duke Cosimo I (1595)
             Mercury (1564),   The Gothic church of Santa   by Giambologna commemorates
              Giambologna’s   Croce (1294) contains the
              famous bronze.   tombs and monuments of
               Across the   many famous Florentines,
               courtyard, two   among them Galileo, Michel-
                more rooms   angelo, and Machiavelli, as well
                contain exterior   as radiant early 14th- century
                sculptures   frescoes by Giotto and his
       Donatello’s statue of   removed from   gifted pupil, Taddeo Gaddi.
         David in the   sites around   In 1842 the Neo-Gothic
         Bargello  the city and    campanile of Santa Croce was
                 an external   added, and the facade in 1863.
                 staircase leads     In the Basilica, Rossellino’s
       to a first-floor collection of   effigy (1447) of Leonardo
       bronze birds by Giambologna.   Bruni, the great Humanist
       To the right, the Salone del   depicted in serene old age, is a
       Consiglio Generale contains    triumph of realistic portraiture.
       the cream of the museum’s   Close by it is the 15th-century
       Early Renaissance sculpture,   Annunciation by Donatello.
       including Donatello’s heroic    The remainder of the monastic
       St George (1416) and his   buildings scattered around
       androgynous David (c.1430).   the cloister form a museum
       Restored in 2008, it is famous as   of religious painting and
       the first free-standing nude by    sculpture. The museum
       a Western artist since antiquity.  houses Cimabue’s Crucifixion,
         Beyond the Salone, the   a 13th-century masterpiece
       Bargello’s emphasis shifts to   damaged in the flood of 1966,
       the applied arts, with room   and Gaddi’s magnificent
       after room devoted to rugs,   Last Supper (c.1355–60).  Statue of Cosimo I in Piazza della Signoria
       For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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