Page 127 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany
P. 127

MORLAIX      125


                                               in 1925. The town also has an
        Caplan & Co                            elegant fountain decorated
        This café and bookshop, which opened in   with lead statues.
        1933, is one of the most atmospheric
        places in Finistère Nord. It is housed in a   E Musée Rural du Trégor
        former grocer’s shop overlooking the   Le Prajou, Guimaec, 13 km (8 miles)
        beach at Poul-Rodou, on the coast road   northeast of Morlaix. Tel (02) 98 67 64
        between Locquirec and Guimaëc. Outside,   77. Open Jul-Aug: daily; Sep–Jun:
        there is a terrace with tables. Inside, where   (timings vary, phone ahead). &
        the décor replicates a school classroom, is   The museum is housed in a
        an excellent selection of books by an   Caplan & Co, one of the   barn on the road running
        international range of authors.  region’s most famous cafés  between the small town of
                                               Guimaec and the wild coast
                                               around Beg an Fry. It contains
       Environs            (reached via the D46A2) and   almost 2,500 traditional tools
       The Trégor Finistérien, the   Primel-Trégastel (via the D46).  and implements of the Trégor,
       small region of heath and     Walkers will enjoy the    including flails, gorse-crushing
       woodland between Morlaix and   coast path that runs round the   hammers, combs for carding
       Locquirec, is worth exploring,   Pointe du Diben. The head land   linen and cream separators.
       not least for its archaeological   bristles with rocks in strange
       sites and beautiful coastal   zoomorphic shapes, such as
       landscapes. From Morlaix, take   those of a dromedary and a
       the D76 that runs along the   sphinx. The Pointe de Trégastel
       estuary to Dourduff-en-Mer.  offers a wide panorama of the
                           English Channel, the Île de Batz
        Cairn de Barnenez  and the Île Grande.
       Presqu’île de Barnenez, Plouézoc’h.
       Tel (02) 98 67 24 73. Open daily. &  St-Jean-du-Doigt
       This megalithic monument   6 km (4 miles) northeast of Morlaix
       crowns the Presqu’île de   via the D46. @ from Morlaix.
       Barnenez. Built in about 4,500   In the late 19th century, the
       BC, it is the largest and oldest   pardon held in this small town
       cairn in Europe. It contains 11   (Sant Yann ar Biz in Breton)
       dolmens, and excavations have   would attract up to 12,000   Fountain in St-Jean-du-Doigt, decorated
       uncovered pottery, bones and   faithful. It is named after a   with lead statues
       engraved motifs. From the tip of   famous relic, the finger of
       the peninsula, there is a superb   St John the Baptist, that is kept   Locquirec
       view of the Château du Taureau   in the church here.  Road map C1. 19 km (12 miles)
       (see p126), the Île Stérec and the     The relic reputedly has the   northwest of Morlaix on the D786
       small harbour of Térénez.  power to restore sight, and,    then the D64. * 1,200. £ @ from
                           in the early 16th century, Anne   Morlaix. n Place du Port;
       L Plages de Plougasnou  of Brittany came to seek a cure    (02) 98 67 40 83. ( Wed am.
       The beaches tucked away    for a troublesome left eye.    It was in this small fishing village
       along the coast between   She was healed, and building   on the border between the
       Térénez and St-Jean-du-Doigt   of a much bigger church to   Trégor and the Côtes d’Armor
       are the most beautiful in the   house the relic duly began in   that the thick, heavy Locquirec
       Trégor Finistérien. They are at   1510. The spire and three bell-  slate – with which almost all
       Samson, Guerzit and Port-Blanc   turrets were struck by lightning   local buildings are roofed – was
                                               once mined. Locquirec (Lokireg
                                               in Breton) is now a coastal resort,
                                               with nine beaches, a large hotel
                                               and a coast path that offers a fine
                                               view of the bay. The church, with
                                               a belfry built by Beaumanoirs in
                                               1634, is as dainty and intimate as
                                               the village itself. It has a painted
                                               wooden ceiling and a charming
                                               statue of Our Lady of Succour.
                                               The Chapelle Notre-Dame-des-
                                               Joies, 5 km (3 miles) further
                                               south, has a 16th-century oak
                                               chancel decorated with fruits,
                                               flowers and chimeras, and a
       Cairn de Barnenez, one of the most remarkable burial mounds in Europe  Virgin and Child.




   124-125_EW_Brittany.indd   125                             11/3/16   1:02 PM
   122   123   124   125   126   127   128   129   130   131   132