Page 117 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 117

FUR THER  AFIELD      115


       dominating the port in a                       de Armas y
       more effective manner, so,                     Fortificaciones is
       on 4 November 1763, con-                       a military museum.
       struction work began on the                    However, the
       new Cabaña fortress. No fewer                  one museum not
       than 4,000 men laboured on                     to miss is the
       the project, including Mexican                 Comandancia del
       and Indian prisoners transported               Che: on 3 January
       from the Yucatán peninsula in                  1959 the barbudos
       conditions of semi-slavery.                    (as Castro and
         The new fortification cost                   his bearded revolu-
       14 million pesos, a sum so                     tionaries were
       large that, according to an                    known) occupied La
       old legend, when King Carlos III               Cabaña and set up
       of Spain was informed of the                   their headquarters
       expense, he asked for a spy-                   in the 19th-century
       glass and reputedly com-                       building that was
       mented: “Such an expensive                     once the residence
       construction should be visible                 of the Spanish
       from Madrid.”                                  military governor.
         La Cabaña, which extends                     Today it is a
       for more than 700 m (2,300 ft)   Entrance to the de La Cabaña parish church, which stands    museum containing
       along the entrance canal    in the fortress parade ground  various items
       of the bay, is a huge 10-ha                    that belonged to
       (25-acre) polygon designed    San Ambrosio bastion and    Che Guevara, including his
       in keeping with the principles    the Terraza de San Agustín,   weapons, glasses and camera.
       of French military schools,    where the poet Juan Clemente   The revolutionary’s original
       but with detailing by the   Zenea was executed for his   office, which has been left
       Spanish engineer Silvestre   separatist ideas in 1871. In the   intact, is also open to visitors.
       Abarca. With its crown-shaped   same area some Soviet nuclear
       plan, it is considered a fine   missiles, left over from the 1962
       example of a bastion-type   Cuban Missile Crisis (see p56),    5 Casablanca
       defence fortification.  are on display.  4 from Muelle de Luz, La Habana
         A visit to the fortress offers      The Museo Monográfico   Vieja, every 15 mins; 7794 5466. £
       a variety of experiences.    illustrates the history of the
       The fortress’s central thorough-  fortress through documents   This fishing village was built
       fare leads up to the Baluardo di   and photographs. The Museo   in the 1700s on the other side
                                               of the Bay of Havana from
                                               the city. Casablanca is
        The Cañonazo
                                               best known for the
        Every evening, at 9pm exactly, the picturesque “Cañonazo”   huge Cristo de la
        ceremony is held in the La Cabaña fortress. On the hour,    Habana, an 18-m
        a volley of cannon shots is fired by a group of young soldiers    (60-ft) tall white
        of the Revolutionary Armed Forces, dressed in 18th-century   marble statue of
        uniforms. This theatrical ceremony is interesting from the   Christ, which looms
        historical point of view: in the colonial period, a volley of   over the village.
        cannon shots was fired at the end of each day to tell citizens   The work of the
        that the city gates were closed and access to the bay had    Cuban sculptress
        been blocked by a chain (see p89).     Jilma Madera
                                               (1958), it was
                                               commissioned by   The colossal Cristo
                                               President Batista’s   de La Habana
                                               wife, Marta. She
                                               had made a vow that she
                                               would finance a large statue
                                               of Christ if her husband
                                               survived the attack by
                                               students on the presidential
                                               palace in 1957, during which
                                               he risked his life. The statue
                                               was completed a week prior
                                               to the Revolution. It can be seen
        The Cañonazo ceremony, a commemoration in historic costume  from many parts of the city
                                               and is familiar to all Cubans.




   114-115_EW_Cuba.indd   115                               14/02/17   11:36 am
   112   113   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122