Page 70 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 70

68      HA V ANA  AREA  B Y  AREA

       1 Catedral de
       San Cristóbal
       Calle Empedrado 156. Map 4 E2.
       Tel 7861 7771. Open 9am–5pm Mon–
       Sat, 9am–noon Sun. 5 8am & 6pm
       Tue & Thu, 8am Fri, 10:30am Sun.
       Construction of the Catedral
       de San Cristóbal (Cathedral of
       St Christopher) began in 1748
       under the supervision of Jesuit
       priests. They were, however,
       expelled from Cuba following
       conflict with the Spanish crown,
       meaning the church was
       finished by Franciscans in 1777.   The austere nave of Catedral de San Cristóbal
       It became a cathedral after the
       collapse of the old Parroquial   asymmetrical bell towers and   Baptiste Vermay, who founded
       Mayor (see p74), which was   an abundance of niches and   the San Alejandro Fine Arts
       caused by the explosion of    columns, which Cuban author   Academy (see p30). The high
       a ship in the nearby port.  Alejo Carpentier described as   altar was created by Italian artist
         In 1789, present-day San   “music set in stone”.  Giuseppe Bianchini in the
       Cristóbal was consecrated as     In comparison,    1800s. To the right is a
       Catedral de la Virgen María de    the Neo-Classical   huge wooden statue of
       la Inmaculada Concepción,    interior is rather   St Christopher, carved
       and the small square where it   disappointing. Large   by the Seville sculptor
       stands gained its current    piers separate the   Martín de Andújar in
       status. In 1796 it was renamed   nave from the aisles,   1636. The legs are out
       Catedral de San Cristóbal de La   which have eight   of proportion with the
       Habana, because, according to   chapels. The largest   trunk, as they were cut
       popular belief, from that year   one is the Sagrario   in order to allow the
       until 1898 it housed the relics    chapel; the oldest    statue to pass through
       of Chris topher Columbus   (1755), designed by   the portal.
       himself. A plaque to the left of   Lorenzo Camacho,       On 16 November,
       the pulpit tells the same story,   is dedicated to the   the saint’s feast day,
       though there is no official   Madonna of Loreto and   a solemn mass is held
       historical record.  contains quaint, tiny   Statue of St   here, during which the
         The architecture is in keeping   houses used as ex votos.  Christopher  faithful, who have to
       with other Jesuit churches     The three frescoes   stay quiet during the
       throughout the world: a Latin   behind the high altar are by   service, file past the statue to
       cross layout, chapels on the   Giuseppe Perovani, while the   silently ask for his blessing.
       sides and to the rear, the nave   original wooden and plaster   This blessing is given as long
       higher than the side aisles.    ceiling, demolished and then   as worshippers do not utter
       The Cuban Baroque façade is   rebuilt in 1946–52, was the   a word until they have left
       grandiose, with two large,   work of Frenchman Jean   the church.
                                   Pope John Paul II’s Visit
                                   Pope John Paul II visited Cuba from 21–25 January
                                   1998 (see p57). This event was of great historical
                                   significance to Cuba, having officially been an
                                   atheist state after the 1959 revolution until the
                                   government allowed greater religious freedom in
                                   the early 1990s. It was greeted with enthusiasm not
                                   only by Roman Catholics, but by virtually the entire
                                   population. The visit was broadcast on television
                                   and the government also officially recognized
                                   Christmas Day as a holiday for the first time since
                                   1969. On 25 January the “Celebration of the Word”
                                   was held in the Cathedral, during which the Pope
                                   met Cuban priests and held an audience with the
                                   faithful in Plaza de la Revolución. The trip paved the
                                   way for future papal visits by Pope Benedict XVI in
        Pope John Paul II in front of the Cathedral  2012 and Pope Francis in 2015.

       For hotels and restaurants in this area see p256 and p270


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