Page 75 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
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LA   HABANA  VIE JA      73


       the Columna de Cacigal, a   centuries). Today, the
       column named after the   buildings are occupied
       governor who ordered its   by a number of shops,
       construction in 1754.  hotels and restaurants.
         El Templete, completed in     The street is split in
       1828, was modelled after a   two by the Plaza de San
       monument in the Basque town   Francisco. North of the
       of Guernica in northern Spain.   plaza is No. 16, the
       Inside are three enormous   18th-century Casa de
       canvases by Jean-Baptiste   los Arabes. It displays
       Vermay (see p30), depicting   18th- and 19th- century
       scenes from the history of   Hispanic-Arab bronzes,
       Havana: the local authorities   fabrics, rugs and furniture:
       inaugurating the building, the   the largest ethnographic
       first cabildo, and the first mass,   display of Arab objects
       which was celebrated by Bishop   in Cuba, evidence of
       Juan José Díaz Espada y Land,   the presence of an old
       who blessed the city as part of   Lebanese, Syrian and
       the ceremony.       Palestinian colony on
                           the island. The building    The Casa de los Arabes patio, with narrow balconies
                           also houses the only   and a Moorish-style fountain
                           mosque in Cuba. The small
                           prayer hall is beautifully inlaid   closely at the plush reception,
                           with mother-of-pearl.  dining rooms and lounge, with
                             South of Plaza de San   their dark wood panelling, and
                           Francisco, tucked away down   the neatly fitted bedroom
                           Calle Churruca, is the Coche   and kitchen.
                           Mambí, a handsome green-
                           and-white train coach dating   E Casa de los Arabes
                           from 1900. For several decades   Tel 7861 5868. Open 9am–5pm
                           from 1912, it was the official   Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.
                           railroad accommodation for   E Coche Mambí
                           successive presidents of Cuba.   Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat,
                           Visitors can step inside to look   9:30am–1pm Sun. &
                            Havana’s Indoor Arts Market
                            The Almacenes San
       The First Mass, one of Vermay’s paintings in   José, a vast crafts
       the Templete         market, opened in
                            2009 as part of the
                            revitaliza tion of the
       7 Calle Oficios      harbour area of Old
                            Havana. In a restored
       Map 4 F2.            warehouse just south
                            of the cruise-ship
       This is one of the capital’s oldest   docks, the Almacenes
       streets, branching out from the   San José is a one-stop
       city’s roots in the Plaza de   shopping centre for
       Armas, and is among only four   handmade Cuban arts
       Havana streets in existence    and crafts. The space is
       from the end of the 16th   enormous, and the
       century. It was originally a    number of stalls can
       link between the military    seem over whelming,
       centre of Plaza de Armas and   but it’s a useful place
       the commercial and harbour   to pick up souvenirs.
       activities centred around Plaza   Search around and
       San Francisco. Together with   there are some gems
       Calle Obispo, this is one of the   to be had, and most
       most atmospheric streets in    stall holders are not   Paintings of classic cars and Che Guevara for sale at
       Old Havana and should be   averse to bartering. The   the craft market, Almacenes San José
                            second-hand book and
       toured slowly (don’t miss the   curio market that sprung up in Plaza de Armas during the 1990s is
       many interesting façades    expected to move to the upper floor. The vast beer hall and restaurant,
       which predominantly date    the Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y el Tabaco, is next door.
       from the 18th and 19th



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