Page 183 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 16: Lazy Rivers and Unspoilt Villages 181

EAT AND DRINK
ALBI
Auberge du Pont Vieux
moderate–expensive
The inventive menu has an emphasis
on modern cooking using locally
grown produce; try the quails stuffed
with foie gras or the excellent fish
selection. The terrace has great views
over the River Tarn.
98 Rue Porta, 81000; 05 63 77 61 73;
closed Tue evening, Wed & Sat lunch
L’Épicurien moderate–expensive
Gourmet restaurant run with passion.
If diners are not sure about what to
choose, they can ask for the menu
dégustation: any six dishes, with
apéritif and wines included.
born in the large brick house on the onto the D33 towards Vaour. On the left
42 place Jean-Jaurès, 81000; 05 63 53
left, the Hôtel du Bosc 7. Next door is there is a detour to the ruined château 10 70; www.restaurantlepicurien.com;
the home of Jean-François Galaup de Commanderie des Templiers. At Vaour, closed Sun, Mon
Lapérouse, who was sent on an turn left onto the D15 and right at the
CORDESSURCIEL
expe dition to circumnavi gate the second sign again onto the D33 and
Bistrot Tonin’Ty moderate–expensive
earth by Louis XVI in 1785, but disap- then the D133 for Penne.
The restaurant of the Hostellerie du
peared in the Pacific in 1788. At the Vieux Cordes, located just above the
end of the street is Maison du Vieil 3 Penne church, is part of the Cordes-based
Alby 8,a brick and colombage house Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées; 81140 catering chain owned by master chef
that is now an exhibition centre on Dramatically sited on a rock outcrop Yves Thuriès. The menu is based
local heri tage. Turn left up Rue Puech overhanging the gorge of the Aveyron around salmon and duck. There is a
terrace for summer eating.
Bérenguier and then right down Rue river below, and overlooked by the Haut de la Cité, 81170; 05 63 53 79 20;
des Prêtres to cross Rue de la Piale jagged stump of its ruined 13th- www.thuries.fr; closed Mon, Tue lunch,
and head straight to reach the Place century castle, this small village is Sun dinner, Jan–mid-Feb; open daily
Jun–Sep
Sainte-Cécile with the entrance to worth a brief stop and stroll. There
the Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile 9 on are some picturesque colombage
the left. The world’s largest brick houses, some of them incorporating
cathe dral is a master piece of French stones from the castle above.
Gothic archi tecture. From the cathe- ª Descend the hill to the valley and
dral walk down to the car park across turn right on the D115 for St-Antonin.
Boulevard du Général Sibille. Before crossing the river, there is a good
ª Leave Albi by crossing the modern view of the town on the opposite bank.
bridge and forking left on Avenue Cross the bridge and turn left at the Above Albi’s cathedral standing tall above the
Dembourg for Cordes. This becomes end. Follow the road to the Caylus Tarn river Below left Medieval building in
the D600. In Cordes park, beside the turnoff. Park here and walk down Rue Cordes-sur-Ciel Below right Distant view of
road at the base of the hill. de la Pélisserie to the town. the hilltop town of Cordes-sur-Ciel
2 Cordes-sur-Ciel
Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées; 81170
The hilltop town of Cordes-sur-Ciel
was founded in 1222. In the 14th
century, it grew prosperous from craft-
working and trade but subsequently
fell into decline. It was restored in the
20th century and is once again filled
with craft workshops. It is easy to find
the way around, as there is one main
street with gateways at either end and
handsomely carved stone buildings in
the middle. The Église St-Michel and
market hall are just off this street.
ª Continue on the D600 towards
St-Antonin-Noble-Val. After Vindrac
turn left for Vaour on the D91, then left