Page 185 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 16: Lazy Rivers and Unspoilt Villages 183

7 Vallée du Célé
Lot, Midi-Pyrénées; 46320
There are three stops worth making
as visitors wind their way up the
valley. Above Cabrerets, Grotte du
Pech-Merle has extraordinary prehis-
toric cave paintings of mammoths
and horses. At Marcilhac-sur-Célé
there is a ruined 11th- to 16th-century
Benedictine abbey. Finally, the church
at Espagnac-Ste-Eulalie across the
river has a photo genic bell tower.
ª From Espagnac, backtrack down
the D41 and turn right onto the D38 Above Panoramic view of the village of
to Grèzes. After the village turn right 9 Rocamadour Rocamadour Below Stone houses with turrets
on the D653 and go through Livernon Lot, Midi-Pyrénées; 46500 in the village of Autoire
to Assier; beyond it, turn left onto the Rocamadour is France’s second most
D840 and then right onto the D940 to important medieval shrine after
EAT AND DRINK
Lacapelle-Marival and Aynac. After Mont-St-Michel (see p95). A good
Aynac follow signs for St-Céré to the way to visit the place is to continue
STCIRQLAPOPIE
D807 and turn right onto it. At the past L’Hospitalet to the château, from
Le Gourmet Quercynois moderate
roundabout at the bot tom of the hill, the ramparts of which there is a view
A 17th-century house that serves
turn right for St-Céré. A right turn off down over the valley. Then walk or traditional regional cuisine.
this road leads to the Château de take the lift down to the village and Rue de la Peyrolerie, 46330; 05 65 31
Montal. Return to the roundabout, climb the monumen tal staircase to 21 20; closed Jan
go over it, and turn left onto the D38. the shrine complex. VALLÉE DU CÉLÉ
Des Grottes inexpensive–moderate
8 Autoire Hotel-restaurant at the southern end of
Lot, Midi-Pyrénées; 46400, 46130 the valley, with a shady riverside terrace.
The village of Autoire is a harmonious Route Grotte du Pech-Merle, Cabrerets,
46330; 05 65 31 27 02; www.
cluster of stone houses sprouting
hoteldesgrottes.com; closed lunch
turrets. At the entrance to the village
Mon–Fri, Nov–Mar
(opposite the cemetery) fork right and
climb to Loubressac, a pretty village AUTOIRE
on the crest of a hill from which it Auberge de la Fontaine moderate
enjoys magnificent views over the Family-run hotel-restaurant serving
trout, foie gras, and confits.
Dordogne Valley.
Le Bourg, 46400; 05 65 10 85 40; www.
ª From Loubressac take the D118
auberge-de-la-fontaine.com; closed
towards Rocamadour. Turn left at the Sun dinner, Mon
crossroads onto the D14 and then turn
ROCAMADOUR
right on the D673. In Padirac turn left
Les Vieilles Tours moderate
onto the D673, or detour right to visit
This stone-built hotel-restaurant serves
the famous Gouffre de Padirac crater.
Quercynois specialities.
The D673 leads into L’Hospitalet. Park Lafage, 46500; 05 65 33 68 01; open
here to visit Rocamadour. daily dinner only; closed Nov–Mar
DAYTRIP OPTIONS at the impressively sited village abbey and the afternoon exploring
The first day trip around the Tarn is of Penne 3 and a drive down the the crater Gouffre de Padirac and the
ideal for those based in Albi (A68 Aveyron gorge. charming village of Autoire 8.
from Toulouse), while the second From L’Hospitalet above Rocamadour
around the northern region of Lot is Start from Albi and follow to Cordes
most easily done from Rocamadour then continue to St-Antonin-Noble-Val. follow the route in reverse through
(just off A20 from Toulouse). Keep on the D115 along the Aveyron Alvignac to Padirac (making a detour
valley and turn right on the D600 to from here to see the crater). Resume the
Historic towns and pretty villages return to Albi. route (still in reverse) to Loubressac and
The handsome historic towns of then Autoire. Then head towards
Cordes-sur-Ciel 2 and St-Antonin- Abbey and crater St-Céré. From the roundabout before the
Noble-Val 4 can be combined in an Based in Rocamadour 9, visitors town, take the D807 and turn right on to
easy day out which includes a stop can spend the morning visiting the the D673 to get back to Rocamadour.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40