Page 184 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

182 BACK ROADS FRANCE

5 Causse de Limogne
Tarn-et-Garonne and Lot, Midi-
Pyrénées; 46260
The deep river valleys of southwest
France are separated by limestone
pla teaus or causses. At the entrance
to Lacapelle-Livron, turn right for a
detour to the little chapel of Nôtre-
Dame des Grâces. About 2 km (1 mile)
further on the D19 is St-Projet, home
to a 13th-century château. Continue
on the D19 towards Limogne-en-
Quercy. About 5 km (3 miles) further
on is Beauregard, which surrounds
a 14th-century stone market hall.
Above left Baskets of flowers adorning the Turn off left on the D53 for Limogne
walls of the town hall in St-Antonin-Noble- 4 St-Antonin-Noble-Val and cross it in a dog leg to pick up
Val Above right Stately château of Cénevières, Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées; 82140 the D24, which meanders down to
Lot valley Below Pretty town of St-Antonin- St-Antonin’s oldest and finest building, Cénevières in the Lot valley. Outside
Noble-Val by the Lot river the Maison Romane on the central this village is a renowned château, a
square, Place de la Halle, is also stately Renaissance home.
claimed to be the oldest civic building ª Follow the road through the village
VISITING ROCAMADOUR
in France. Above it is a stout belfry. of Cénevières towards the Lot river
In the narrow medieval streets of the but do not cross the bridge – just
Parking
The layout of Rocamadour is town are several other buildings before it, turn left onto the D8 for
complicated. There are essentially worth seeing, including the town hall Crégols, after which turn right for St-
three parts: the village at the bottom, next to the church and the Maison Cirq-Lapopie. Turn left at the end of
the shrines (sanctuaries) in the middle de l’Amour on Rue Droite, where a the road. Park either above or below
and the buildings that stand above
the shrines, the château and the 15th-century stone carving shows the village and take the footpath.
service centre of L’Hospitalet. Park the heads of a man and a woman
in L’Hospitalet. turned towards each other in what 6 St-Cirq-Lapopie
seems to be an immortal kiss. Leaving Lot, Midi-Pyrénées; 46330
Tourist Information
L’Hospitalet, 46500; 05 65 33 22 00; St-Antonin on the D19, a short detour One of France’s most beautiful villages,
www.vallee-dordogne-rocamadour.com after 7 km (4 miles) takes visitors to St-Cirq enjoys a spectacular site high
the restored Château de Cas (open above the Lot river. Its steep streets
Sat–Sun Apr-May; Tue–Sun Jun–Sep), have fine houses. The founding
WHERE TO STAY
which was once a Templar possession. theorist of Surrealism, André Breton,
ª Leave St-Antonin on the D19 for chose this as his home in the 1950s.
STCIRQLAPOPIE
Caylus, where it is worth stop ping for a ª Continue past St-Cirq, turning right
Mas de Redoules inexpensive
This restored farmhouse offers beauti- moment to see the house opposite the above the village for Bouzies into a
fully decorated rooms in what was the tourist information office, the Maison small road that runs high above the
farmhouse, former barn and stable. des Loups, which carries snarl ing stone valley. At Bouzies, cross the river by
Walking, riding and cycling excursions beasts lunging out of its façade. Go over the narrow bridge. Turn right towards
in the surrounding area are on offer. the crossroads in Caylus onto the D19 Cajarc and left for Cabrerets on the
Nougayrac, 46330; 06 31 79 63 86;
www.masderedoules.com for Lacapelle and St-Projet, marked D41. Keep on this road all the way up
“Route des Causses de Quercy”. the Vallée du Célé.
AROUND ROCAMADOUR
Domaine de La Rhue moderate
This bed-and-breakfast has spacious
rooms in the converted stables of an ivy-
clad château amidst extensive grounds.
La Rue, 46500; 05 65 33 71 50;
www.domainedelarhue.com
Moulin de Fresquet moderate
This is a converted mill 11 km (6 miles)
southeast of Rocamadour offering bed-
and-breakfast and a candlelit dinner (no
dinners on Thursdays). The rooms are
decorated with antiques and tapestries.
Gramat, 46500; 05 65 38 70 60;
www.moulindefresquet.com; closed
mid-Oct–mid-Apr