Page 191 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 17: Wine and Water 189

archaeology and history, and turn left
down Cours Victor Hugo to reach
the Grosse Cloche 9, a 15th-century
gateway which was the bell tower of
the former town hall. Turn left here
down Rue St-James and right down
Cours d’Alsace-Lorraine. Cross the road
and take the little fork to the left to
enter Place du Palais, presided over
by the Porte Cailhau 0, another
15th-century gateway.
Facing the gateway, take the road to
the left, the Rue des Argentiers, to
the square outside the Église St-
Pierre q, cross it and con tinue in
roughly the same direc tion along
Rue du Parlement St-Pierre into the
Place du Parlement w, with its bars
and cafés. Turn right here down Rue Above Monument aux Girondins, Bordeaux
Fernand Philippart into the grandiose 2 Margaux Below left Place du Parlement in Bordeaux
Place de la Bourse e. In the middle Gironde, Aquitaine; 33460 Below right Vineyards at Château Margaux
of the square is a fountain of the There are over 60 wine châteaux in
Three Graces. Across the road on the the vicinity of Margaux village, which VISITING THE VINEYARDS
riverbank is another fountain, this gives its name to an appellation
one strikingly contem porary: the d’origine protégée (AOP). Château Many of the Médoc’s wine-producing
Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror), which Margaux itself, a 19th-century Neo- châteaux can be visited. Ask for details
has a computer-controlled display. Classical mansion (open Mon–Fri by at the Maison du Vin et du Tourisme
(Wine Information Centre) either in
Turn left along the Quai de la appointment only, closed Aug), is just Margaux or Pauillac.
Douane which follows the riverbank outside the village, behind gates
Margaux
to come along side Place Jean-Jaurès at the end of a long drive. The
7 place de la Trémoille, 33460;
and the car park. estate, which stretches over 2.62 sq 05 57 88 70 82
ª From Place Jean-Jaurès in the km (1 sq mile) produces one of the
Pauillac
centre of Bordeaux make for the quais most expensive wines in the world.
La Verrerie, 33250; 05 56 59 03 08;
by the river to pick up the signs to the The Maison du Vin et du Tourisme in www.pauillac-medoc.com
Rocade (ring road), Rue Fondaudège. Margaux will tell visitors all they need
Cross the Rocade and take the right to know about wine visits in the area.
turn for Blanquefort and Pauillac on ª Leave Margaux still heading north EAT AND DRINK
the D2. Go right through Blanquefort. on the D2. Visitors who have seen
BORDEAUX
All the famous Médoc châteaux stand enough vineyards can turn into
on or near the D2 after Macau, Lamarque on the D5, passing the tall, Baud et Millet moderate
This restaurant specializes in wine (950
beginning with Château Siran, just domed bell tower and heading for
wines) and cheeses (100 varieties)
off the road (right), and Château the port to take the ferry across the
served with home-made bread.
d’Issan outside Cantenac. Château estuary. Otherwise, make a detour to 19 rue Huguerie, 33000; 05 56 79 05 77;
Palmer, on the right, announces the Pauillac by continu ing on the D2. www.baudetmillet.fr; closed Sun
arrival in the village of Margaux.
Wines of the Médoc
Many of the world’s most famous
(and expensive) red wines, includ-
ing four ranked as premier cru, come
from the Médoc (Middle Country)
region. The vineyards begin at the
town of Blanquefort and stretch
northwards, inland from the banks
of the estuary, in a narrow strip of
immaculately tended grav elly land
never more than 5 to 8 km (3 to
5 miles) wide. A thou sand wine
producers here call them selves
“châteaux” but only a few actually
have premises to match the name.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40