Page 192 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

190 BACK ROADS FRANCE

off Blaye. From the outside it is a
complex of inclined walls, gateways,
bastions, watchtowers and powder
stores. Inside the walls there is a
hotel, restaurant, museum and a
few bars and shops.
ª Take the D255 northwards to St-
Ciers-sur-Gironde. From here take the
D145, the “Route Verte” (Green Route),
which winds up and down through
low hills. On the way are pleasant
villages and outlying vineyards of the
Cognac brandy region. In St-Dizant-
de-Gua stop to look at the 15th-
century Château de Beaulon. After
reaching Talmont, park in the area
provided as cars are excluded from
the village.
Above Impressive 17th-century fortress at
Blaye Below Grand Château Pichon- 3 Pauillac 5 Talmont-sur-Gironde
Longueville in Pauillac Gironde, Aquitaine; 33250 Charente-Maritime, Poitou-Charentes;
The commune of Pauillac consists 17120
of only 12 sq km (4.5 sq miles) of The most picturesque sight on the
CROSSING THE ESTUARY
vineyards, but produces three of Gironde estuary is the 12th-century
There are nine sailings a day in high Bordeaux’s five premier cru wines: Romanesque church built by
season in both directions between Latour, Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Benedictine monks on a low cliff at
Lamarque and Blaye, from 7:30am to Rothschild. There are several pres- Talmont. The village was added in
7:30pm. Timetables are given on a tigious châteaux on or near the D2 1284 by Edward I of England, who
leaflet available from local tourist
information offices. The crossing around the small riverside town of reigned over this part of France. It
takes about 20 minutes. Pauillac. Starting with Beychevelle, was con ceived as a model medieval
05 57 42 04 49; www.bernezac.com the route passes Beaucaillou and community with streets and alleys
Latour to the right, and Pichon- laid out on a grid pattern and
WHERE TO STAY Longueville and Lanessan, with its protected by walls. Today the village
horse museum, to the left. A short is extremely well cared for by its
AROUND way beyond the town on the left inhabitants and filled with flowers.
TALMONTSURGIRONDE are Lafite Rothschild and Mouton ª Take the D114 to Cozes and from
Les Chambres d’Hôtes d’Ana Rothschild, which uses leading artists there the D17 to Saujon. Follow signs
moderate to create its wine labels and has a around or through Saujon onto the
Rooms are sunny and tastefully small museum of paintings on wine D117 for Sablonceux, where you may
decorated. Breakfasts, with homemade
cakes and jams, can be taken in the themes from all over the world. The want to stop and see the Augustinian
garden in summer. unique Oriental structure of Château abbey. Continue north through
3 rue de l’Amiénois, 17120; 05 46 91 16 66 Cos d’Estournel stands on the right. Nancras to Pont-l’Abbé-d’Arnoult.
ª After visiting the Pauillac area Turn left at the entrance to the town
Le Moulin de Châlons moderate
About 28 km (17 miles) north of return down the D2 to Lamarque. From
Talmont, en route to the Château de Lamarque turn onto the D5, pass ing
St-Jean-d’Angle, this reno vated 18th- the tall, domed bell tower again and
century mill has com fortable rooms heading for the port to take the ferry
and a restaurant with a riverside terrace.
2 rue du Bassin, La Gua,17600; 05 46 across the estuary to reach Blaye.
22 82 72; www.moulin-de-chalons.com;
closed Sun and Mon Oct–May 4 Blaye
Gironde, Aquitaine; 33390
ROCHEFORT
The squat fortress which watches
La Corderie Royale
moderate–expensive over Blaye was built in the 17th
Hotel-restaurant between the yacht century by Vauban under the orders
harbour, the Charente river and the of Louis XIV. It formed part of the
adjacent royal rope-making factory, defences of the port of Bordeaux
this is an ideal base for visiting the against the English. The fortress
historic core of Rochefort or as a lunch
stop while sightseeing. was complemented by Fort Médoc,
Rue Audebert,17300; 05 46 99 35 35; facing it from the other bank of the
www.corderieroyale.com estuary, and Fort Paté on an island
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150