Page 193 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
P. 193
DRIVE 17: Wine and Water 191
on the D18 towards the Île d’Oléron. as France’s oyster capital, and heads
Champagne has a rebuilt Romanesque for the Île d’Oléron. Turn right for
church. Turn left after Champagne, Hiers-Brouage on the D3 and go
still onto the D18, which leads into through it to reach Brouage itself.
St-Jean-d’Angle. In the middle of the
village, turn right for Oléron, still 7 Brouage
the D18. Look out for the discreet Charente-Maritime, Poitou-Charentes;
entrance to the château on the right. 17320
When the town of Brouage was
founded in 1555 it stood on the sea.
It was an important place of com-
merce, and as such was solidly
fortified. Cardinal Richelieu had his
fortress here which he used as his Above Romanesque church at Talmont-sur-
base during the Siege of La Rochelle Gironde Left Brightly painted door and
(1627–8). As the marshes were window of a house in Talmont-sur-Gironde
reclaimed and the sea retreated
during the 18th century, Brouage
was left stranded and redun dant
EAT AND DRINK
with its ramparts intact and
picturesquely overgrown at places.
PAUILLAC
ª Continue on the D3 to Moëze and
Hotel de France et d’Angleterre
then Soubise. In Soubise follow the
moderate expensive
signs for Rochefort which lead to the The hotel-restaurant offers both
southern end of the modern bridge gourmet and bistro meals.
across the Charente river. While 3 quai Albert Pichon, 33250; 05 56 59
01 20; closed Sun, Dec & Jan
crossing it, there is a view of the
transporter bridge below to the right. BLAYE
Auberge du Porche
6 Château de St-Jean- 8 Rochefort moderate–expensive
d’Angle Charente-Maritime, Poitou-Charentes; Restaurant serving seafood and meat
accompanied by local Blaye wines.
Charente-Maritime, Poitou-Charentes; 17300
5 rue Ernest Régnier, 33390; 05 57 42
17620 During the 17th century, France’s navy
22 69; www.auberge-du-porche.com;
This charming moated château-fort, began to swell in power, and in 1666, closed Wed, Sun dinner
easily missed by anyone driving past Louis XIV ordered the construc tion of
TALMONTSURGIRONDE
unawares, was built in 1180 by an arsenal at Rochefort. The arsenal
Guillaume de Lusignan to safeguard closed in 1927 and since then the L’Estuaire moderate–expensive
Restaurant with a menu strong on
the revenue from the saltworks on site, extend ing along the bank of
seafood. Also has a bar and tearoom.
the marshes below the town. The the Charente, has been restored 1 avenue de l’Estuaire, 17120; 05 46 90
castle fell into ruin after the Revolution for visitors. The main building is the 43 85; www.hotellestuaire.com
but has been restored in recent years. elongated Corderie Royale, the royal
ª Leave the village on the D18 and rope-making works. Next to it is a dry BROUAGE
go through St-Just-Luzac. At the dock where a replica of the Hermione, Le Brouage moderate
Oysters from Marennes, eels and fish
round about after the village turn right an 18th-century wooden frigate, has
are among the items on the menu.
for Oléron on the D728. This busy road been constructed accor d ing to its Rue de Québec,17320; 05 46 85 03 06;
bypasses Marennes, which styles itself original plans (open daily when docked). www.le-brouage.com; closed Thu
DAYTRIP OPTIONS and Pauillac 3,then cross the The Saintonge
Bordeaux (on the A10) and Rochefort Garonne estuary to Blaye 4 to see Explore the coast and hinterland
(from Paris turn off the A10 onto the the imposing squat fortress there. south of Rochefort 8 including the
N248, then take the N11 and D911) Then return to Bordeaux on the fortified village of Brouage 7 and
are the best bases for exploring the other bank. the castle at St-Jean-d’Angle 6. In
Médoc and the western Saintonge. between are marshes rich in birdlife.
Follow the route as far as Pauillac.
Wine châteaux Double back (still following the route) After visiting the town, follow the
Visit the famous wine chateaux to Lamarque and take the ferry across route in reverse through Brouage as
of the Médoc peninsula north of the estuary to Blaye. Take the D937/ far as St-Jean-d’Angle. After St-Jean-
Bordeaux 1,which are mainly D137 to meet the A10. Take this back d’Angle turn left on the D733 to return
concentrated around Margaux 2 to Bordeaux. to Rochefort.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
