Page 213 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 19: The Cathar Trail 211

7 Rennes-le-Château 8 Puivert
Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11190 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11230
This tiny village has become a great The 14th-century private château
attraction for those in search of the (open daily, closed 15 Nov–15 Dec),
occult. The mystery behind the priest, con struc ted round a courtyard
Abbé Saunière, suddenly growing rich with six towers, has a beau ti fully
in the late 19th century has restored cha pel. Known as
never been satisfactorily the trou ba dour’s castle, it has
explained and the legend of a min strels’ room with sculp-
hidden treasure draws many ted capi tals of musi cians.
visitors every year. It has Some of their instru ments
inspired bestsellers such as are dis played in the town’s
The Da Vinci Code. Sights to museum (open daily, closed
visit are Saunière’s church and Nov–mid-Apr).
his house and garden with its ª Continue on the D117 to
library tower, now a museum Belesta. Turn left onto the D5 Above Saunière’s majestic library tower in
(open daily, closed Jan–mid-Feb). for Fougax-et-Barrineuf and Rennes-le-Château
ª Return to Quillan; turn Tapestry in the then turn right onto the D9 to
right onto the D117 to Puivert. museum at Puivert reach Montségur.
EAT AND DRINK
9 Montségur AROUND QUÉRIBUS
Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées; 09300 L’Auberge du Vigneron moderate
The approach to Montségur is part of the experience. Catching About 4 km (2 miles) from Quéribus,
this restaurant in an auberge wine
glimpses of the stone remains of the castle, it is possible to imagine the cellar is known for regional specialities
last band of Cathars fleeing here to seek refuge in this remote place. such as rib of wild boar with ceps.
2 rue Achille Mir, Cucugnan, 11350; 04
68 45 03 00; closed Mon
A one-hour walking tour More than 200 chose to die, and Pascal Borrell moderate
From the car park access to the hurled themselves into the flames of This lively restaurant, 7 km (4 miles) from
Château de Montségur 1 is a few a vast pyre. When visitors descend Quéribus, uses local wines for cooking,
especially the sweet dessert Maury wine.
turns of the steep road upwards. The again they will see a Cathar cross at
La Maison du Terroir, avenue Jean-
walk to the top (1,216 m/3,990 ft) is the foot of the mountain, marking
Jaurès, Maury, 66460; 04 68 86 28 28;
clearly indicated. It is a short but the spot where they died. The castle closed Mon and Tue
steep climb up the rocky path and domi nates the small village, which is
MONTSÉGUR
there are several points along the worth visiting afterwards for lunch
way where visitors can pause to get and a trip to the small museum 2, Auberge de Montségur moderate
At the foot of Montségur, in the heart
their breath back and look at the which has infor mation about the
of the village, is this small cosy hotel-
view of the moun tains around. Cathars (open daily, closed Jan). Retrace restau rant with comfortable rooms.
Eventually the path brings walkers the route to the car park. 52 Le Village, 09300; 05 61 01 10 24
to the rocky summit and the base of
the castle ramparts. One large keep
remains, its great stone walls pierced
$IÄUFBV EF
only by two arched doorways and .POUTÊHVS
narrow arrow slits. This was to be the
last stronghold of the Cathars. Many
sympathizers and pilgrims fearing $BUIBS
$SPTT
persecution fled here and for ten
%
years about 500 people lived within
the ramparts or the village that
huddled round them. %
In 1242 the Cathars dispatched a
band of soldiers, who assassinated
11 Inquisitors trying their fellows in
Avignonet. In retaliation King Louis IX
sent an army of 6,000 to besiege 0 metres 200 .VTFVN
Montségur. After ten months of siege %
through a hard Pyrenean win ter, they 0 yards 200 1VJWFSU
were given a stark choice: renounce
their faith or die.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €20; moderate €20–€40; expensive over €40