Page 212 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

210 BACK ROADS FRANCE

3 The Corbières Castles 5 Château de Peyrepertuse
Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11330 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11350
The Corbières, the Pyrenean foothills The most vertiginous castle of all
southeast of Carcassonne, were one at 800 m (2,625 ft), rising out of a
of the main centres of Cathar resis- craggy barrier of rock, Peyrepertuse
tance. Much of the land is untamed can only be reached via a long and
garrigue. Here, visitors can discover winding road, and is a climb of at
several castles, spectacularly perched least half an hour. The site is so
sanctuaries on craggy peaks that nar row that the castle (open daily,
made ideal sites for hilltop for tresses. closed Jan) is only a few yards wide
At Durfort is a ruined château. From in parts and accessible by only one
here turn left onto the D40 to Termes narrow entrance. It is still a formi-
to see its castle, which suffered a dable fortress, with two towers, and
four-month siege in 1210. Turn left a Romanesque chapel in the keep
from here onto the D613 to reach of St-Georges. The wind takes the
the Château de Villerouge-Termenès breath away, as do the views to
(closed Jan and Feb, Mon–Fri, Mar and the sea, to the void below and to
mid-Oct–Dec), where the last known the far peaks of the Pyrenees.
Cathar was burned alive in 1321. ª After Peyrepertuse continue along
ª From Villerouge-Termenès the D14 to Cubières-sur-Cinoble and
backtrack to turn left onto the D39 then take the D10 through the dramatic
Above Stunning Gorge de Pierre Lys on the right onto the D139. Turn left on the but tortuous Gorges de Galamus.
way from Puilaurens to Quillan Below left D10 and again left on the D410. Next Then follow the D7 to St-Paul-de-
Fourteenth-century Château de Puivert turn right on the D123 for Padern. Fenouillet, and turn right onto the
Below middle Cathar cross in Montségur After Padern turn right onto the D14 D117, until arriving at Lapradelle. Look
Below right Keep of the Château de to Cucugnan and then left onto the out for a sign to Puilaurens, requiring
Montségur, a Cathar stronghold D123 to Quéribus. Turn right at sign to a left turn in the village onto the D22.
Quéribus and con tinue up the steep hill
to the main (second) parking place. 6 Puilaurens
WHERE TO STAY Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11140
4 Quéribus Puilaurens is one of the best examples
AROUND THE CORBIÈRES Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11350 of the amazing refuges of the Cathars,
CASTLES The one remaining keep of Quéribus, perched at nearly 700 m (2,300 ft).
perched on its peak at a height of Visitors can drive nearly all the way,
Domaine Saint-Marie des Ollieux
inexpensive 728 m (2,388 ft), domi nates the plain up so only a modest 10-minute climb
Stay in one of three rooms available of Roussillon below and has spec- is required. A single steep stone stair-
at this family-run vineyard, and enjoy tacular views (open daily, closed Jan). way zigzags its way to the top of the
an aperitif in the wonderful gardens It is well preserved, with a complex ramparts. The architecture of the castle
surrounding the domaine. Breakfast of stair ways, tunnels, dungeons and (open daily, closed Mon–Fri Mar, Nov–Jan)
is available on request. a vaulted central hall, which was is a fine illustra tion of medi eval defence
Montséret, 11200; 04 68 43 59 20;
perhaps ori ginally a chapel. Quéribus methods with its walled courtyard,
Domaine Haut Gléon moderate sheltered a few remaining Cathars slanted arrow slits and chutes.
This wine estate, 25 km (15 miles) after the fall of Montségur and was ª Return to and continue on the D117
from Villerouge-Termenès, has rustic finally besieged only in 1255. to Quillan, via the Gorge de Pierre Lys.
acco mmodation in a renovated ª Return to the D14 and head in the Turn right onto the D118 to Couiza,
stable wing, and fine wine to taste.
Durban,11360; 04 68 48 85 95; direction of Peyrepertuse. The access and right again on the D52 to reach
www.hautgleon.com road is a left turn from Duilhac. Rennes-le-Château.

Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150