Page 211 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 19: The Cathar Trail 209

1 Carcassonne
Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon; 11000
Carcassonne’s citadel (La Cité) of pepper-pot towers has been a
strategic site for over 2,000 years. It is a dramatic sight on a rocky
outcrop above the Aude river – a medieval town encircled by a
double wall of forti fications punctuated by massive towers. It was
restored in the 19th century by the Gothic revivalist Viollet-le-Duc.
Evidence of settlement dates from St-Nazaire-et-St-Celse (open daily)
the 6th century BC, and Carcassonne with its lovely medieval stained glass
became a key part of Roman coloni- and the famous Siege Stone depict-
za tion. Parts of the inner walls and ing the death of Simon de Montfort.
towers date from the Roman period, ª From La Cité follow signs to
including the Avar Postern Gate. By Mazamet on the D149 and turn right
the 12th century the town was one onto the D620. Then turn right onto
of the great powers of the south. the D11 to cross the Canal du Midi and
During the crusade against join the D610. Turn left and at Homps
the Cathars, Carcassonne was on the take the D910 to Olonzac; continue on
front line and finally fell after a siege the D910 to Aigues-Vives. Turn left onto
led by Simon de Montfort in 1226. the D907, then take the D10 to Minerve. Above Pepper-pot tower of the citadel in
The citadel was then reinforced Carcassonne Below left Bridge across the
with a second ring of ramparts and 2 Minerve gorge to Minerve Below right Minerve’s Rue
towers. However, La Cité lost its role Hérault, Languedoc-Roussillon; 34210 des Martyrs lined with medieval houses
of frontier guard once the Treaty of In the bleached hills of the Minervois
the Pyrenees moved the border in wine country, Minerve sits perched
1659. The citadel fell into decline on its rocky spur at the confluence VISITING CARCASSONNE
until Viollet-le-Duc stepped in. of the Cesse and Brian rivers. It is Tourist Information
Enter the castle through the twin defended by the Candela, the octa- 28 rue de Verdun, 11890; 04 68 10 24 30.
sandstone towers of the Narbonne gonal tower that is all that remains of
Parking
Gate. Between the ramparts are the the original château. In 1210 this little
The main parking spaces are Parking
lices, a further defensible space, once village resisted a seven-week siege André Chénier, Parking des Jacobins
used for jousting and now the best which ended with the immo lation of and Parking Gambetta. No cars are
place to walk round to get a good 140 Cathars. Walk along the Rue des permitted in La Cité itself.
sense of the defences. Inside the cita- Martyrs to the 12th-century church
WHERE TO STAY
del is a maze of well-restored medi- of St-Étienne, with its 5th-century
eval houses and winding streets. The marble altar table.
CARCASSONNE
Château Comtal (open daily) domi- ª Return to Homps on the D910.
Hotel de La Cité expensive
nates the centre. Visitors can see the Turn left onto the D610 then right
Grand hotel in the ramparts of La Cité
watchtowers, posterns, covered onto the D611 towards Lézignan- with celebrated eatery, La Barbacane,
wooden walkways and machicola- Corbières. Continue to Fabrezan, serving all the luxuries of the region.
tions here. Do not miss the Basilique then take the D212 to Durfort. Place Auguste-Pierre Pont, 11000; 04
68 71 98 71; www.hoteldelacite.com
MINERVE
Relais Chantovent inexpensive
Simple accommodation in the village
with views over the gorge and a
restaurant serving local classics.
17 Grand Rue, 34210; 04 68 91 14 18;
www.relaischantovent-minerve.fr;
closed Wed
EAT AND DRINK
CARCASSONNE
Jardins de la Tour
inexpensive–moderate
Pretty, idiosyncratic restaurant with
garden dining and authentic regional
dishes such as cassoulet and fresh fish.
11 rue Porte d’Aude, 11000; 04 90 85
66 50; www.jardindelatour.fr; closed
Sun, Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40