Page 220 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

218 BACK ROADS FRANCE

ª Take the D982 to Moussac. From
Moussac turn left (signposted Nîmes)
and then right towards La Reglisserie,
then turn left onto the D8 towards
Aigremont. Turn right onto the
D907 before entering the village of
Aigremont. At Lédignan follow signs
to Anduze. Now follow signs to La
Bambouseraie, turning right
onto the D129.
4 La Bambouseraie de
Prafrance
Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon; 30140
A vast exotic garden, established in
1856 by French botanist Eugéne
Mazel, La Bambouseraie (open daily
Mar–mid-Nov) is now the largest bam-
boo forest in Europe. Wander round
the shady green avenues of many
varieties of bamboo, some reaching
a height of 27 m (88 ft), and admire
other exotic species such as japonica,
Top left Herd of sheep on a remote farm in palms, sequoia and ginkgo biloba.
the Cévennes Top right Tableau of Camisard 3 Uzès The park also includes a Laotian vil-
chief Roland in front of the Musée du Désert, Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon; 30700 lage, constructed entirely of bamboo,
Mas Soubeyran Above View of the rolling At the heart of Uzès is the medieval with an enclosure of Vietnamese
hills of the Cévennes Below Medieval square square of Place aux Herbes, with shady pigs, a tranquil Zen garden, water
of Uzès arcades full of cafés around a central gardens, bonsai and a labyrinth.
fountain. There is also a delightful ª Continue along the D129 into the
medi eval garden in the Old Town, full village of Générargues and turn left
SHOPPING of herbs and medicinal plants. The onto the D50 to reach Mas Soubeyran.
Tour Fenestrelle (not open to visitors)
Bamboo artifacts domi nates the town with its 12th- 5 Mas Soubeyran
Intriguing bamboo-inspired artworks
add to the experience at La century arcaded bell tower, all that Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon; 30140
Bambouseraie, and a shop offers a remains of the Romanesque cathedral. One of the most important sites of
wealth of items and plants. Do not miss the privately owned French Protestantism, Mas Soubeyran
pal ace, Le Duché d’Uzès (open daily), is a sombre, inspiring memorial to
WHERE TO STAY with its 12th-century tower, Renaiss- the oppression of Huguenots (French
ance façade and Burgundian-tiled Protestants) during the religious wars
UZÈS chapel. The 17th-century Cathédrale of the 17th and 18th centuries. The
Hostellerie Provençale moderate St-Theodorit is the main location for hills of the Cévennes provided sanc-
Lovely Provençale house, centrally loca- the Uzès music festival in July. tuary for the rebellious Camisards
ted, with nine beautifully restored rooms.
1–3 Rue de la Grande Bourgade,
30700; 04 66 22 11 06; www.
hostellerieprovencale.com
AROUND STJEANDUGARD
La Porte des Cevennes moderate
A quiet hotel, 14 km (9 miles) south of
the town, this place has views of the
Gardon Valley from its terrace.
Route St-Jean-du-Gard, Anduze,
30140 ; 04 66 61 99 44; www.hotel-
restaurant-porte-cevennes.fr
La Ferme de Cornadel moderate
This is a rustic Cévennes farmhouse
with comfortable rooms. The cuisine is
based on local produce such as
sausages and sheep’s cheese.
Route de Générargues, Anduze, 30140;
04 66 61 79 44; www.cornadel.fr
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150