Page 221 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 20: Two Thousand Years of Bridges 219

(the “white shirts”). This remote hamlet From the Col de Pierre there is a
was where Camisard chief Roland glimpse of Mont Aigoual and its obser-
was born, and today is home to the vatory. Parc National des Cévennes,
Musée du Désert (open daily Mar–Nov) now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve,
which offers a moving testimony to the is a strictly controlled environ ment,
faith of the persecuted Huguenots. bal ancing agriculture and for estry with
ª From the D50, turn left following ecologi cal concerns. Rare flora, such as
signs to St-Jean-du-Gard. Park in the orchids and adonis, and fauna, includ-
car park at the centre of the village. ing otters, vultures and red deer, have
proliferated or been reintroduced.
ª Continue along the Corniche de
Cévennes (D9) to the Col du Rey,
where it becomes the D983, which
then joins the D907 at Baraques de la
Fontaine. Here turn right to Florac.
The Stevenson Trail
In 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson
walked 220 km (137 miles) from Le
Monastier to St-Jean-du-Gard with
his truculent donkey, Modestine,
sleeping under the stars or in rudi-
mentary inns. In his Travels with a
Donkey in the Cévennes he cap tures
perfectly the rugged beauty of the Above Inside the exotic garden of
region. The trail he took is now very La Bambouseraie de Prafrance Below Wicker
popular with walkers.
baskets on display at a shop in Uzès Left
Fontaine des Dives in the delightful little town
8 Florac of Florac
Lozère, Languedoc-Roussillon; 48400
This charming little town, nestling at
the foot of rocky cliffs, is a Cévennes
6 St-Jean-du-Gard crossroads and gateway to the
Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon; 30270 Gorges du Tarn. The Old Town of
This small unpretentious town on the narrow winding streets and quiet
EAT AND DRINK
banks of the Gardon river, with its shady squares clusters around the
ancient bridge and 12th-century clock Fontaine des Dives, a refreshing pool
UZÈS
tower, is the gateway to the Cévennes. and waterfall. The 17th-century
L’Artemise expensive
It was famous for its silk-making tradi- château, centre of information for Gastronomic restaurant in a 16th-
tion until the last mill closed in 1965. the Parc National des Cévennes century mas situated in a hamlet on
The best way to appreciate the town (open daily Easter–Oct, Mon–Fri rest of the outskirts of town.
and its history is to visit the Musée des the year), has an exhibition space Chemin de la Fontaine, 30700; 04 66 63
94 14; www.lartemise.fr; closed Mon
Vallées Cévénoles (re-opening 2016. Call devoted to the landscape and flora
lunch, Tue (and Wed off season), Feb–
04 66 85 32 11 for opening details), newly and fauna. mid-Mar
located in a former spinning mill. It ª From Florac follow signs to Gorges
FLORAC
offers a survey of Cévenol rural life. du Tarn. First take the N106, then D9078
ª From St-Jean-du-Gard take the signposted to Ispagnac and Quézac. La Source de Pécher
moderate–expensive
D907 and then the D260 signposted to
With a picturesque terrace overlooking
Corniche des Cévennes (D9).
the river and waterfall, this place is
known for local specialities such as duck
7 Corniche des Cévennes with bilberry sauce and Lozère trout.
Rue Remuret, 48400; 04 66 45 03 01
Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon; 30270
A fine way to appreciate the Cévennes AROUND FLORAC
landscape is to drive along the ridge La Lozerette inexpensive–moderate
road that was built by the Romans One of author Robert Louis
and improved by Louis XIV. Ascend Stevenson’s stops, this rustic auberge
through the chestnut forests to the with a garden offers regional specialities
like Aubrac beef and good local wines.
lime stone plateaus or causses, riddled
Cocures, 48400; 04 66 45 06 04; open
with extraordinary caves and gorges
daily Jul and Aug; closed Tue, Wed
and scattered with remote farms. lunch Sep–Oct and May–Jun; Nov–Apr
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40