Page 236 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

234 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Nice
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur; 06000
For centuries Nice bounced back and forth between French and
Italian ownership, but architecturally, Vieux-Nice, the city’s Old Town,
exem plifies the historical Italian influence. Narrow streets slip
between buildings soaked in deep pastel hues. Picturesque squares
form the perfect backdrop for pave ment cafés. Nice’s pedestrianized
Old Town is at its most breathtaking early in the morn ing, when
visitors will have the streets to themselves, or at dusk, when the
Mediterranean sunset steeps the city in a golden hue.
Above Matisse’s former home on the Cours
Saleya, Nice
A 90-minute walking tour Galerie Sainte-Réparate. Cross Place
VISITING NICE From Parking Saleya, follow Rue Rossetti (stopping in at Fenocchio to
St-François de Paule to the pedestri- have some of the finest ice cream),
Tourist Information an ized Cours Saleya 1. This street has follow Rue Rossetti uphill and turn
5 promenade des Anglais, 06000; 08 92 been home to Nice’s produce market left into Rue Droite. A host of
70 74 07; www.nicetourism.com;
closed Sun Oct–May for well over a century. Matisse lived galleries like Galerie du Château 5,
on the third and fourth floors of 1 Galerie Renoir 6 and Atelier Phobé
Parking
Parking Saleya, Parking Port de Nice place Charles Félix, at the eastern 7 line Rue Droite, Rue de la Loge
and Parking Palais de Justice are all end of this boulevard, from 1921 to and Rue Benoît Bunico. After brows-
centrally located. Car parks can fill up 1938. The imposing saffron-coloured ing the art on display, walk up Rue
early in the day during high season. build ing is closed to the public, but it St-François to the town’s fish market
is easy to see how the views over the 8. Follow Rue St-François as it veers
Old Town, Colline du Château and left, turn ing left again into Boulevard
Mediterranean sea inspired the artist. Jean-Jaurès. Cross the road to Avenue
Head through Place Gautier 2, St-Jean Baptiste and weave right
WHERE TO STAY
packed with stalls selling primarily around Lycée Félix Faure 9, Nice’s
organic produce. Turn right into prettiest secondary school. Turn left
NICE
Rue Alexandre Mari, left into Rue into Rue Désiré Niel and enter
Hôtel Windsor moderate–expensive
Rooms at this chic hotel have been St-Gaétan, then right into Rue de L’Atelier Soardi 0 (open Tue–Sat), an
decorated by 20 contemporary artists. la Préfecture. Cross the road and step art gallery and framing shop, form-
11 rue Dalpozzo, 06000; 04 93 88 59 into Galerie Sainte-Réparate 3 (open erly Matisse’s studio in 1930–31,
35; www.hotelwindsornice.com Tue–Sat), which hosts some of the where he created his enor mous
Hôtel et Plage Beau Rivage expensive finest contemporary art and photo- mural, La Danse. Retrace the route to
Home to Matisse during 1917–18, this graphy exhibitions in the city. Walk Avenue Félix Faure, ambling down to
classy seafront hotel was renovated by north along Rue Sainte-Réparate to the restored Place Massena q,
famed architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Place Rossetti. On the left, the an open-air art gallery. Continue on
24 rue Saint François de Paule, 06300;
04 92 47 82 82; www.hotelnice Cathédrale Ste-Réparate 4 provides Avenue de Verdun. Turn left and stroll
beaurivage.com an ornate, 17th-century contrast to down the famous Promenade des
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Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150