Page 255 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 24: Ancient Ports and Deserted Beaches 253

4 Désert des Agriates
Haute-Corse, Corse; 20246
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 160-sq-km (60-sq-mile) Désert
des Agriates covers the eastern edge of the Balagne region. Its
brutal sunshine and short, shrubby brush land bely the fact that in
the 18th and 19th centuries this zone was referred to as Corsica’s
breadbasket. Sadly, it proved to be one of the world’s first lessons
in the damages of over-farming. Slash-and-burn agriculture resulted
in large-scale erosion and destroyed the area’s natural biodiversity.
The French government began slowly buying up the land in the
1970s and, in 1989, it was declared a nature reserve. It is illegal to
camp, other than at designated grounds, or hike into the wild.

A 90-minute walking tour featured in the 1962 film The Longest
Disembark at the pier to the west Day, with John Wayne, Richard
of Plage du Lodo’s 1 shimmering Burton and Sean Connery. Wander
white sands and bear left, then eastwards along the beach to pick
sharply right up the short, steep out an exclusive patch of paradise.
incline. Stick to the principal dirt Be sure to carry a copy of the ferry Above Serene Plage du Lodo in Désert des
path, which meanders between schedule, and allow enough time to Agriates
dry-stone bergeries (shepherds’ huts). retrace the route to Plage du Lodo to
Inhale the aroma of maquis, the catch the ferry back to Saint-Florent.
island’s shrubby blend of aromatic Note that there is only one ferry service VISITING DÉSERT DES
AGRIATES
plants, as the land scape opens onto a day from Plage de Saleccia, hence
beautiful vistas of jagged mountains the deserted nature of the beach. Ferry Information
to the south. The more adventurous can take Le Le Popeye ferries drop passengers at
After walking for approximately Sentier des Douaniers (the customs pretty Plage du Lodo.
40 minutes, visitors will reach U officers’ path), east along the coast Place Centrale, Saint-Florent, 20217;
04 95 37 19 07; www.lepopeye.com
Paradisu 2 (open May–Sep) on the back to Plage du Lodo. More difficult
left. This basic camp site hosts a but rewardingly pretty, this route will Parking
freshwater fountain, a small shop, a take around 75 minutes. Parking de Saint-Florent is located
in the town’s port, just next to
bar selling cold drinks and sand- ª From Saint-Florent’s port, head west
Le Popeye’s ferry terminal.
wiches and a restaurant (dinner by on the D81. Follow signs to Calvi-Île
reservation only). Bear right past the Rousse and turn right onto the N1197
handful of 4WD vehicles and head for just before Monetta. At Lozari, this road
the sea. A few steps will lead to the becomes the N197. Follow the road and
unspoilt turquoise shores of Plage de park before Algajola town centre, at EAT AND DRINK
Saleccia 3 This sandy stretch was Aregno Plage, or near the train station.
ERBALUNGA
Le Pirate moderate–expensive
0 metres 500 This restaurant serves specialities such
as creamy squid risotto, or red mullet
0 yards 500 on a bed of seared foie gras.
,IGURIAN 3EA Place Marc Bardon, 20222; 04 95 33 24
20; www.restaurantlepirate.com;
closed Jan–Mar
4FOUJFS EFT %PVBOJFST BASTIA
A Casserella moderate
4FOUJFS EFT %PVBOJFST
Located in one of the side streets of
the maze-like historic port of Bastia,
this traditional restaurant offers
1MBHF EF 4BJOU 'MPSFOU authentic cuisine and friendly service.
4BMFDDJB
6 rue Ste-Croix, 20600; 04 95 32 02 32;
1MBHF EV -PEP closed Sat lunch, Sun, Nov
SAINTFLORENT
6 1BSBEJTV L’Arrière Cour inexpensive–moderate
The menu blends a Moroccan theme
with classic French quiches, salads and
stews. Reservations are a must.
Village, 20217; 04 95 35 33 62; closed
Tue, Jan–Feb
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40