Page 257 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 24: Ancient Ports and Deserted Beaches 255

7 Calvi 1567 by a gunpowder explosion Below left Fifteenth-century citadel of Calvi
Haute-Corse, Corse; 20260 from the arsenal. Residents of the overlooking the bay
Founded by the Romans in the town claim Christopher Columbus
1st century AD, Calvi today is half was born here. There are even the
military town and half holiday resort. remains of what is claimed to be
The town is dominated by the his birthplace within the citadel.
mas sive Genoese citadel that sits on Calvi is one of Corsica’s most
the rocky promontory over look ing lively towns, teeming during the EAT AND DRINK
the harbour below. Built during the summer as ferries and yachts from
15th century, the citadel has huge mainland France pull in and out of ALGAJOLA
bastions on all its four sides, three its small harbour. The Quai Landry La Vieille Cave moderate
of which overlook the sea. Step into is the town’s most renowned prome- Subtle starters, including artichokes
the Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste to nade and is lined with hotels, cafés stuffed with brocciu cheese, give way
admire Christ des Miracles, an ebony and restaurants. Visitors can spend to unfeasibly large mains: grilled sea
bass, or a plate of meat to cook on a
crucifix credited with ban ishing their time at one of the many outside
hot stone slab (pierrade). The two
aggressive Turks from the city during tables, watching the boats anchoring evening set menus make for a well-
a late 16th-century siege. The or setting off. The 4.5-km (3-mile) priced meal.
cathedral was almost destroyed in long beach has fine white sand. 9 Place l’Olmo, 20220; 04 95 60 70 09;
closed Mon lunch, Jan
CALVI
U Calellu moderate
This fashionable quayside restaurant is
renowned for its fantastic fish dishes
and delicious desserts. It has an
impressive selection of Corsican wines.
Quai Landry, Port Landry, 20260; 04 95
65 22 18; closed Mon, Oct–Apr
AROUND CALVI
Le Matahari moderate
A beach bar par excellence, Le Matahari
is 10 km (6 miles) from Calvi, on the
sunset side of the Golfe de Calvi. A
clue to the cuisine is offered by the
garland-wearing Buddha statue
guarding the entrance. Try the Thai
green curry, seafood tempura or
Lebanese-style meze (tapas).
Plage de l’Arinella, Lumio, 20260; 04 95
60 78 47; www.lematahari.com; closed
Mon dinner, Oct–Mar
DAYTRIP OPTIONS this little-visited peninsula. Centuri is Corsican extremes. Clamber up to
Even at summer’s peak, Corsican ideal for a plate of portside seafood, the citadel in Calvi for vast views
roads remain relatively traffic-free. or stop and sunbathe on black sand over the Golfe de Calvi and the Old
No matter where visitors choose to beach below Nonza. Park up in Town below. Walk along the port to
stay, it is always easy to get from Saint-Florent 3 and enjoy a sun- see the day’s catch, then take the
Bastia to Calvi along the D81 or take downer or take a walk around the N197 south to the D151, the turn-off
the N197 west of the Désert des pictur esque narrow streets and for Calenzana. Set well into the
Agriates to quickly access either of cobbled squares. island’s rugged interior, Calenzana is
these day trips. part of the Strada di l’Artigiani 6.
Take the D80 from Bastia to Erbalunga Shop for sandstone ceramics, or pick
Rolling hills and pretty towns and continue to Macinaggio. Turn west up local delicacies, like wild boar
Rather than taking the D81 across onto the D80, take a sharp right onto the
the base of Cap Corse, keen drivers D35 to Centuri, then the D35 and D80 to pâté with figs. Hikers can set off on
can opt for the shore-hugging D80 the GR20, the 180-km (119-mile) trail
Nonza and then the D80 to Saint-Florent. that crosses Corsica from Calenzana
around the Cap. Drive north wards From here, take the D81 back to Bastia. to Conca on the island’s east coast.
from busy Bastia 2, through
Erbalunga 1 to Macinaggio. Head Calvi to Calenzana The D151, south of Calvi, loops
westwards between rolling hills, with They may be just 14 km (9 miles) through the hills, passing Calenzana
the shadow of scores of giant wind apart, but Calvi 7 and Calenzana and the Strada di l’Artigiani towns
turbines the only modern touch in neatly encapsulate opposite along the way.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40