Page 254 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

252 BACK ROADS FRANCE

2 Bastia
Haute-Corse, Corse; 20200
Bastia exudes a distinct urban air that
con trasts with many of Corsica’s
resort towns. It was founded in 1378,
when the Genoese governor estab-
lished a hilltop citadel overlook ing a
small fishing port that was known
then as Porto Cardo (now the Vieux
Port). The ramparts were com pleted
a century later. The Place St-Nicolas
faces the wharf where ferries from
the main land and Italy arrive. The
Église de St-Jean-Baptiste, with its
remark able Baroque façade and twin
WHERE TO STAY
1 Erbalunga bell towers, is Corsica’s largest church.
Haute-Corse, Corse; 20222 There is plenty to do in Bastia: wander
ERBALUNGA
One of Corsica’s most important along the citadel’s rampart walls, visit
Castel Brando expensive ports for over 2,000 years, Erbalunga Place de l’Hôtel de Ville’s morning
This hotel is a tastefully renovated
mansion by the sea. Guest rooms are was strategically posi tioned between produce market or book one of the
selectively furnished with antique the alternately ruling republics of port’s quayside tables for dinner.
beds and writing desks. Pisa and Genoa. The latter’s tower ª Drive around Place Saint-Nicolas
Erbalunga, 20222; 04 95 30 10 30; and lookout point can still be seen and take Avenue du Maréchal
www.castelbrando.com
today on the headland. The village Sébastiani (D81) west, following signs
BASTIA is home to the Église St-Érasme, to Saint-Florent. Park at the Parking
Hotel Central moderate where visitors can see crosses of the de Saint-Florent in the port.
This tranquil hotel oozes romance. Cerca pro cession, in which hooded
Lower-floor double rooms feature peni tents participate in a candlelit The Vineyards of Corsica
antique tiles and period furniture. pro cession through the village on
3 rue Miot, 20200; 04 95 31 71 12; The Patrimonio valley’s chalky,
www.centralhotel.fr Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. clay-like soil is ideal for cultivating
These days the sleepy fishing hamlet Corsican grapes, such as Vermentinu,
SAINTFLORENT is the perfect spot to get acquain ted used for white wines, and Niellucciu
Dolce Notte moderate–expensive with Corsican culture while snacking, for rosés and reds. Stop at one of
Rooms all have a sea-facing balcony or sipping and generally unwinding. the local domains in order to
terrace, and there is a private beach. sample and stock up. Medal-winning
Plage lieu-dit Ospedale, Route de The harbour is lined with several Domaine Orenga de Gaffory (www.
Bastia, 20217; 04 95 37 06 65; seafood restaurants. Erbalunga also
www.hotel-dolce-notte.com makes an ideal base for exploring the domaine-orengadegaffory.com) is
one of the region’s finest.
scenic Cap Corse peninsula.
Above View of the Ligurian Sea from the ª Head south to Bastia on the D80,
citadel in Saint-Florent Below left Village of which will lead directly to Place Saint- 3 Saint-Florent
Erbalunga Below Old port and the Église de Nicolas. Park on the east side of the Haute-Corse, Corse; 20217
St-Jean-Baptiste in Bastia square, in the signposted car park. Nestled between the wine-producing
Patrimonio Valley and the sandy
white beaches of the Désert des
Agriates, Saint-Florent is an animated
port town. It has brightly coloured
houses along the harbour and a
lively promenade with boutiques,
restaurants and cafés, open till late at
night in summer. Stroll into the Old
Town to discover a cluster of pastel
buildings threaded with picturesque
narrow streets and cobbled squares.
For beautiful views over the Golfe de
Saint-Florent, make the short hike up
to the citadel just before sunset.
ª Hop onto one of the frequent
passenger ferries from Saint-Florent
to Plage du Lodo. En route is the
Genoese tower La Mortola on the left.