Page 42 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

40 BACK ROADS FRANCE

The Land of Three Frontiers

Lorraine is a major European crossroads, as it shares its borders
with Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg. The region’s land-
scapes change dramatically over a short distance – from the
gentle slopes of the Côtes de Toul to the very scenic forested
valley of the Moselle river. While Metz to the north is Lorraine’s 0 kilometres 10
administrative capital, Nancy strongly contends to be the cul - 0 miles 10
tural and culinary one, basking in the splendour of its regal
square, Place Stanislas. Head east and Lorraine trans forms into a
wild natural area of mountain passes, ravines and pine forests.

Pont-a-Mousson Delme
Nomeny
St-Mihiel
Flirey Dieulouard Dieuze
Beaumont Château-Salins
Apremont-
la-Fôret Moselle Moyenvic
Pompey
Meuse
LIVERDUN
CÔTES DE TOUL Arracourt
Frouard
Villey-St- Réméréville
Commercy Boucq Etienne Parroy
Lucey NANCY Sânon
Bruley Gondreville
St-Nicolas-
TOUL Jarville de-Port
Maron Dombasle-sur-Meurthe
Lunéville
KEY
Pont-St-Vincent
Drive route Bénaménil
Blénod- Blainville-
lès-Toul Moselle sur-l’Eau
MEURTHE- Meurthe
Crépey Gerbéviller
Colombey-les-Belles ET -MOSELLE
Bayon
Tantonville
1 Côtes de Toul stone and rounded roof tiles. There is
Meurthe-et-Moselle, Lorraine; 54200 a lovely view from its hillside chapel.
The grape-growing hills of the Côtes ª The Route du Vin et de la Mirabelle
de Toul lie on the lip of the Lorraine follows the D908 from Boucq to Lucey
plateau, at the southern edges of the and Bruley. From Bruley, continue on
forests of the Parc Naturel Régional the D908. At the first major intersection
de Lorraine. Wine culture prospered on the approach to Toul, turn left and
Above Signpost pointing towards a wine under the dukes of Lorraine and follow the signs first to the “Centre
domaine in Lucey, Côtes de Toul bishops of Toul and by the mid-1800s Ville” then towards the “Cathedral/
there were 110 sq km (43 sq miles) Tourism Office” to park.
of grapes. A century later, in the
WHERE TO STAY
aftermath of grape plagues, the 2 Toul
ravages of World War I and rural Meurthe-et-Moselle, Lorraine; 54200
TOUL
exo dus, only 0.3 sq km (0.12 sq miles) The best view of Toul is from the
La Villa Lorraine
inexpensive–moderate remained. The Route du Vin et de Boulevard Aristide Briand. The Gothic
In the historic heart of Toul, the 21- la Mirabelle, which traverses the towers and Romanesque spires of
room hotel has old-world charm, with vineyards and orchards of cherry Cathédrale Saint-Étienne loom
lots of pastels, pinks and mauves in the plum trees between Boucq, Lucey above the city walls. The cathedral
decor. The rooms are simple, yet well and Bruley, symbolizes the come back and town hall rub shoulders with the
furnished and have satellite TV. Meals
are served to the room on request. by local winemakers. Bruley is a typ- Place Charles de Gaulle, surrounded
15 rue Gambetta, 54200; 03 83 43 08 ical Toulois village with its vaulted by gardens, canalside quays and
95; www.hotel-villa-lorraine.com wine cellars and houses with white stone ramparts. Wander around the
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150