Page 43 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
P. 43

DRIVE 2: The Land of Three Frontiers  41


                                                         PLAN YOUR DRIVE
                                                        Start/finish: Côtes de Toul
                                                        to Dabo.
                                                        Number of days: 2.
                                                        Distance: 155 km (96 miles).
                                                        Road conditions: Vary from
                                                        excellent to ordinary between
                                                        départements.
                                                        When to go: Summer is the best
                                                        time to visit Lorraine.
                                                        Opening times: Vary greatly
                                                        between individual sights and
                                                        museums. Generally from 10am to
                                                        5pm. Most sights close on Mondays
     MOSELLE                 Phalsbourg                 and major public holidays. Check
                   Sarrebourg      Saverne              ahead before visiting.
       Azoudage              Lutzelbourg
     Maizières-      Rehtal  Schaeferhof                Main market days: Toul: Wed;
     lès-Vic  Héming  Sitifort                          Nancy: Tue–Sun; Dabo: Sat.
                   Walscheid  DABO
                                                        Shopping: In the countryside, buy
                Abreschviller  Rocher de Dabo
                       Lettenbach                       Côtes de Toul wines, Mirabelle eau-
              St-Michel
                    ST-QUIRIN                           de-vie, Crème de Mirabelle, tarts,
     Blâmont                                            cakes and confitures (jams); in
              Cirey-sur-            Niederhaslach
        Domèvre-  Vezouze                               Nancy, shop along the glamorous
        sur-Vezouze
                           Massif du Donon              Rue des Dominicains and Rue
    Ogeviller              1,009 m                      Gambetta and in Place Stanislas for
             Badonviller
   Montigny                                             clothing, Art Nouveau objects and
                        Schirmeck                       glassware and crystal such as
                                                        Baccarat and Daum. Buy local
         Raon-                                          honey from Dabo.
         l'Etape
                                                        Major festivals: Toul: Fête du
                                                        Vignoble, Sep; Nancy: Rendez-Vous
                                                        place Stanislas, Aug–Sep; Aye Aye
                                                        Film Festival, Sep; Le Livre sur Place,
       church cloister and the Classical   walking trail – the Itineraire de la
       sandstone passages and façade of   Boucle de la Moselle – along the   Sep; Jazz Pulsations, Oct.
       the Hôtel de Ville – once the   canals and riverbanks.
       Episcopal palace of Toul.   ª Descend to the lower town and   Above Scenic countryside of the Moselle near
       ª Take the D191 through Villey-St-  cross the bridge over the Moselle. Turn   St Quirin, see p43 Below left Cathedralé
       Étienne, then the rue de la Porte Haute   left onto the D90, pass through   Saint-Etienne standing behind the city walls
       to the signposted Liverdun.   Frouard. Continue on the A31 towards   in Toul Below right Porte Haute, the fortified
                               Nancy. Exit at junction 20 for Nancy.  gateway of Liverdun
       3 Liverdun
       Meurthe-et-Moselle, Lorraine; 54460
       Built on a rocky spur, Liverdun was a
       garrison for Toul’s bishops. The views
       from alongside the Porte Haute, the
       fortified gateway of the upper town,
       take in the thick bends of the Moselle.
       The tourist office (closed Sun; low
       season) is in L’Hôtel de Camilly, once
       the bishop’s summer residence. Also
       see the pretty Place de la Fontaine
       with its arcades and statuettes. The
       stairway, La Côte au Laye, leads to the
       lower town, where there is a marked
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