Page 44 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

42 BACK ROADS FRANCE

4 Nancy
Meurthe-et-Moselle, Lorraine; 54000
Beyond the Classical riches of Place Stanislas, Nancy’s old town is a
hive of antiquity, while the “new town” is scattered with exquisite
works of Art Nouveau. Basking in its royal history, Place Stanislas
truly became a public square when it was pedestrianized in 2004.

A one-hour walking tour Parc de la Pépinière 5, a park first
Nancy does not have a great climate, established by Stanislas as a tree
and visitors may have to do the walk nursery to line the roads of Lorraine –
under grey skies or drizzle. The tourist now open to the public. Head back
office is on the corner of Rue des past the Hemicycle and turn right into
Dominicains and Place Stanislas 1. Grande-Rue, a long narrow street
The royal square was inaugurated in of medieval houses, which leads
1755 by the Duke of Lorraine and for- to the Cordeliers quarter with its
mer Polish king, Stanislas Leszczynski. convent and church, old market place
Its Classical stone façades are clad in Place Saint-Epvre 6 and the Palais
gold-embossed wrought-iron railings Ducal 7. A bit further north are the
and Art Nouveau lamps. The sweep old city gates – the 14th-century
of grand edifices around the square Porte de la Craffe 8 and Porte de
include the Hôtel de Ville, Opera- la Citadelle 9 with its Jardin dela
Theatre, Beaux-Arts Museum, the Citadelle. Head back down Rue du
Above Arc de Triomphe in Place Grand Hôtel and Grand Café Foy. The Haut Bourgeois to the Cours Léopold;
Stanislas, Nancy ensemble is now a UNESCO World its villas are the begin ning of a prome-
Heritage Site. Pass through the Arc nade through Nancy’s Art Nouveau
VISITING NANCY de Triomphe 2 – an imitation of riches. The inte riors and exteriors of
Rome’s Arch Septimius Severus – to the Brasserie Excelsior 0 (open daily)
Tourist Information
Place Stanislas, 54011; 03 88 35 22 41; the Place de la Carrière 3 – once a are the result of work by a group of
www.ot-nancy.fr jousting field, it is now the govern- artists from the École de Nancy – an
ment and justice hub, with the Appeal Art Nouveau movement born in 1901,
Parking
Meter parking near Place Stanislas/ Court in the Hôtel de Craon and the which set to decorating the town with
Hôtel de Ville. Administrative Tribunal in the former, beautiful elements and forms, ceramic
Bourse de Commerce. At the far end, architec ture, iron and stained-glass
the Palais du Gouvernement 4 is work. The Chambre de Commerce q
set within a semicircular colonnade. opposite is another example of their
Behind it off Rue des Ecuries is the legacy. Take Rue des Dominicains and
36& %&4 (-"$*4 1PSUF EF MB
WHERE TO STAY 36& 4&--*&3
$JUBEFMMF
NANCY 36& 4*(*4#&35 "%".
Maison d’Hôtes de Myon moderate
This is an 18th-century town house 1PSUF EF MB
$SBíF
transformed into a bed-and-breakfast. 36& +"$2605 1BSD EF MB
"MMÊF (FPSHFT $IFQGFS
7 rue Mably, 54000; 03 83 46 56 56; 36& %6 )"65 #063(&0*4 (3"/%&Ŭ36& 1BMBJT %VDBM 1ÊQJOJÍSF
www.maisondemyon.com 1BMBJT EV
Hôtel des Prélats moderate 1MBDF 4BJOU (PVWFSOFNFOU 36& )&37­ #";*/
&QWSF
Housed in a 16th-century Episcopal 1MBDF EF MB
#06-&7"3% %6 °.& 3°(*.&/5 % -/'"/5&3*&
palace, this classy hotel has French $0634 -&010-% (3"/%&Ŭ36& 1- %& -" $"33*°3& $BSSJÍSF
provincial furnishings and artworks. ,A -EURTHE
56 place Monseigneur Ruch, 36& % " .&37"- "SD EF 36& 45&Ŭ$"5)°3*/&
5SJPNQIF
54000; 03 83 30 20 20;
www.hoteldesprelats.com 1-"$& 1MBDF 1-"$& %&
$"3/05 4UBOJTMBT - "--*"/$& "7&/6& %6 ­.& $0314
DABO )ÔUFM EF 7JMMF
36& %& -" 3"7*/&--&
$IBNCSF EF 36& %0.*/*$"*/4
Hotel-Restaurant des Vosges $PNNFSDF 36& 45Ŭ(&03(&4
inexpensive–moderate
Family-run hotel with nine rooms, 36& )&/3* 10*/$"3­ 36& %&4 $"3.&4 0 metres 250
36& 45"/*4-"4 36& 45Ŭ%*;*&3
some with views, and a restaurant. #SBTTFSJF 36& %& -" 7*4*5"5*0/ 36& 45Ŭ+&"/ 36& 45Ŭ+6-*&/
41 rue de la Forêt Brûlée, 57850, 36& .";"(3"/ &YDFMTJPS 36& %&4 5*&3$&-*/4 0 yards 250
Dabo la Hoube; 03 87 08 80 44;
www.hotel-restaurant-vosges.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150