Page 105 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Milan & The Lakes
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SOUTHEAST  MILAN      103


                           chapel is noteworthy because   The palazzo is open to the
                           of the impressive realism of   public and features many
                           Crespi’s St Charles Fasting, and   interestingly decorated rooms
                           the vault fres-coed by Giulio   and fine works of art, such as
                           Campi (1558) is also impressive.   the wooden 17th-century
                           The 15th-century Chapter   globe by Giovanni Jacopo
                           House was designed and   de Rossi. The most important
                           painted by Bergognone:    room is the Giunta (Council
                           saints and doctors are in a    Chamber), which in 1954
                           false peristyle.    became the home of Tiepolo’s
                             On the right-hand wall is   masterful Triumph of Doge
                           Christ with the Apostles. In Via   Morosini, which came from
                           Bellini you can see the left side   Palazzo Morosini in Venice.
       The octagonal dome of Santa Maria della   of the church and the dome.    The Sala dell’Antegiunta has a
       Passione (17th century)  At No. 11 is the Art Nouveau    lovely 18th-century Murano
                           Casa Campanini (1904), with   glass chandelier, while the
       by Giulio Cesare Procaccini,    wrought iron work by   Sala degli Affreschi boasts
       on the altar of the third    Alessandro Mazzucotelli.  17th-century frescoes taken
       chapel, and the Madonna di              from the villa of Cardinal Monti
       Caravaggio, a fresco attributed         at Vaprio d’Adda. The Studio
       to Bramantino, in the sixth   r Palazzo Isimbardi   del Presidente is decorated
       chapel. The presbytery still    Corso Monforte 35. Map 4 E5.    with a Neo-Classical ceiling,
       has its original Greek cross   Tel 02-774 01 (Lombardy Province    partly in fine gold. In 1940 the
       struc ture. The paint ings   PR Office). q 1 San Babila. v 9, 23.    Province of Milan enlarged the
       hanging from the piers, mostly   @ 54, 61, 94. Open apply to IAT    palazzo. The new façade on
       the work of Crespi, narrate the   (see p207).  Via Vivaio was decorated
       Passion and include Christ              with bas-reliefs sculpted by
       Nailed to the Cross. Behind    The seat of the Milan provincial   Salvatore Saponaro depicting
       the Baroque high altar is a   government since 1935, this   the activities of the Milanese.
       wooden choir (16th-century)   palazzo dates from the 15th   At No. 31 Corso Monforte is the
       with mother-of-pearl inlay.    century but was enlarged by   Palazzo della Prefettura, rebuilt
       The church became a place    the noble families who lived    in its present state in 1782. It
       of intense musical activity in   in it, among whom were the   has frescoes by Andrea Appiani.
       the 16th and 17th centuries,   Isimbardi, who pur chased it in   It is not open to the public.
       when two organs were built   1775. The 18th-century façade
       opposite each other, on either   on Corso Monforte leads to    t Fondazione
       side of the choir. The instrument   the porticoed court of honour
       on the right was created by    (16th century), which still    Prada
       the famous Antegnati, and the   has its original herringbone    Largo Isarco 2. Map 8 E5. Tel 02-56
       one on the left by Cristoforo   pattern paving. The garden   66 26 11. q 3 Lodi TIBB. @ 65.
       Valvassori, who was involved    behind this boasts an admirable   Open 10am–7pm Mon, Wed &
       in building the organ in the   Neo-Classical façade designed   Thu; 10am–9pm Fri–Sun. Closed
       Duomo. The doors of the latter   by Giacomo Tazzini (1826).  1 Jan, 25 Dec. 7 -
       instrument have scenes from             ∑ fondazioneprada.org
       the Passion painted by Crespi.
       Frequent classical music                The brainchild of fashion
       concerts for organs pieces              designer Miuccia Prada and
       composed for four hands are             her husband Patrizio Bertelli,
       still held here.                        the Fondazione Prada is an
         There are remarkable                  institution dedicated to
       Cinquecento paintings in the            contemporary art, cinema and
       transepts: the artwork on the           culture. As well as organizing
       right-hand side has a Deposition        exhibitions by international
       altarpiece by Bernardino Ferrari        artists, the Fondazione promotes
       (after 1514) with the Legend of         activities such as film festivals,
       the Cross in the predella; and on       multi disciplinary and philo-
       the altar to the left is Gaudenzio      sophical conferences, and
       Ferrari’s Last Supper (1543), with      events related to architecture
       a Crucifixion by Giulio Campi           and design.
       (1560) alongside.                         The venue itself, an early
         The chapels on the left-hand          20th-century distillery attract-
       side of the nave contain fine           ively redesigned by the Dutch
       works by Camillo Procaccini,   The 18th-century façade of Palazzo   architect Rem Koolhaas, is
       Vermiglio and Duchino. The first   Isimbardi, in Corso Monforte  worth the visit alone.




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