Page 53 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Milan & The Lakes
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HIST ORIC  CENTRE      51


                                               where, according to tradition,
        The Holy Nail of the Cross             Sant’Ambrogio (St Ambrose)
                   In the vault above the choir, a red light marks   baptized St Augustine in AD
                    the location of the niche where a nail from   387. From San Carlo’s feast day
                     Christ’s Cross has been kept since 1461.   to Epiphany, the Quadroni di
                     The nail, which was once kept in the early   San Carlo go on display in
                     medieval Santa Maria Maggiore, is in the   the nave. These paintings, the
                    shape of a horse shoe and was found by St   work of leading 17th-century
                   Helena and later given to her son, Emperor   Lombard artists, depict the
         Tabernacle of the Nail    Con stantine. It was later donated to   story of the life and miracles
           of the Cross  Sant’Ambrogio and carried by San Carlo    of San Carlo.
                    in procession during the 1576 plague.
        It is shown to the public every 14 September, when the Bishop
        of Milan is raised up to the level of the niche which holds the    Roof Terraces
        nail in a kind of decorated balcony, drawn by invisible pulleys.  On the way to the lift a which
                                               goes up to the roof, you should
                                               go to the apse to admire the
       Life of Sant’Ambrogio 8, carved   ends at the northern portal   central stained-glass window,
       in 1572–1620. In the right-   of the sacristy u, with Christ the   designed by Filippino degli
       hand transept is the funerary   Lord and Judge (1389). The left-  Organi in 1402. From the roof
       monument of Gian Giacomo   hand transept is dominated by   there is a magnificent view of
       Medici 9, the brother of    the 5-m (16-ft) bronze Trivulzio   the city and the mountains
       Pope Pius IV, which was once   Candelabrum i, a 12th-   to the north, as well as the
       attributed to Michelangelo   century masterpiece by the   Duomo spires and statues and
       but is in fact the work of   goldsmith Nicola da Verdun.   even the buttresses below.
       Leone Leoni (1560–63).   The candelabrum carries
       Past the chapel dedi-   scenes from the Old
       cated to St John the    Testament and the Three   Museo del Duomo
       Good, Bishop of Milan    Wise Men riding towards   The Cathedral museum,
       in the 7th century, above    the enthroned Virgin.   founded in 1953, is at No. 15
       the side entrance is the   Going down the north aisle,   Via Arcivescovado. It houses
       splendid stained-glass   you will see the Chapel of   paintings, sculptures, religious
       window of St Catherine    the Crucifix o carried by   objects and stained-glass
       of Alexandria 0, designed   San Carlo in procession   windows from the Duomo.
       by the Arcimboldi       during the 1576 plague.   Among the best works are
       brothers in 1556. A little   Behind this is a window   St Paul the Hermit, Tintoretto’s
       further on is the strange    with a depiction of the   Christ among the Doctors (1530)
       statue of the flayed    Chalice in the   Discovery of the True   and a wooden model of the
       St Bartholomew q,   Duomo Treasury  Cross by St Helena   Duomo, begun in 1519. It
       signed and dated 1562     (1570–77). To the    focuses on both the hist orical
       by Marco d’Agrate.  left of the entrance, steps lead   and artistic elements of the
         At the beginning of the   down to the remains of an Early   Duomo, and also docu ments
       ambulatory there is a Deposition   Christian apse of Santa Tecla   the restoration of the four
       on the southern door of the   and an octagonal baptistery p   central piers (1981–4).
       sacristy w (1393), dedicated
       to the “Mysteries of the Virgin
       Mary”. Steps e lead to the
       crypt (1606), where San Carlo
       Borromeo is buried, the Duomo
       Treasury, with its exceptional
       collection of church vestments
       and objects, and the Coro
       Jemale, a small 16th-century
       room decorated with fine
       stucco work (check out the relief
       sculpture cycle of the Life of
       the Virgin Mary, a 17th-century
       masterpiece). The apse is
       illuminated by the three huge
       19th-century stained-glass
       windows by the Bertini brothers
       with episodes from the Old y
       and New r Testaments and the
       Apoca lypse t. The ambulatory   The right side of the presbytery of the Milan Duomo




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