Page 479 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 479

hairpin bends on the D618
                           approach road reveals the   TOP  PLACES TO
                                                 3
                           simple square tower and   TAKE THE
                           round apse of this remote   WATERS
                           Romanesque structure, which
                           is surrounded by a botanical   Amélie-les-Bains
                           garden of indigenous herbs   Found near Céret, these
                           and woodland plants, clinging   mineral springs fill
                           to the mountainside.  ther mal baths famed
                             Inside the cool and austere   since Roman times for
                           12th-century building there is   relieving of skin issues.
                           a surpris ingly elaborate chapel
                           tribune, its columns and fine   Vernet-les-Bains
                           arches glowing from the local   The sub-tropical
                           red-veined marble, artistically   microclimate here has
                           carved by the anony mous   attracted visitors since
                           Master of Cuixà, whose work   the belle époque. Kipling
                           can be seen in many buildings   was a big fan (www.
                           through out the region. Note   vernet-les-bains.fr/).
                           the strange beasts and the   St-Thomas-les-Bains
                           verdant flora featured in the   Naturally-heated to
                           capital carvings, especially    58⁰C (136⁰F), these
                           the rose of Roussillon.  sulphur springs enable
                                                 you to dip in the outdoor
       capitals incorporated in local            pools even in winter
       buildings. In 1925 he sold the   7        (www.bains-saint-
       carvings to the Metropolitan              thomas.fr).
       Museum of Art in New York,   Céret
       where they were used to form   ! E7   ⌂ Pyrénées-
       the basis of the remarkable   Orientales   @   n 5 rue
       Met Cloisters museum – an   Saint Ferréol; www.  pieces donated by Picasso,
       accurate re-creation of a   vallespir-tourisme  in  cluding a series of ceramic
       Romanesque abbey in the                 bowls painted with scenes of
       unlikely setting of Manhattan.  Surrounded by a cloud of pink   bullfighting; and paintings by
         Down in the town of Prades,  blossom in the early spring,   Matisse, Chagall, Juan Gris and
       the Eglise St-Pierre has a   Céret produces the very first   Salvador Dalí.
       southern Gothic wrought iron   cherries of the year. Th annual     The town’s Catalan heritage
       belfry and a Baroque Catalan   cherry festi val, held over a   is evident in regular bullfights
       interior. The town is also well-  weekend in May or early June,   that are held in the arena, and
       known for the legacy of the   with music, dancing and   in its Sardana dance festivals,
       Spanish cellist Pablo Casals,   cherry-related events.  which take place in July.
       who spent many years here in     There’s a Spanish feel to the    Around Céret the mineral
       exile from Franco’s Spain; the   tiled and painted façades and   waters have long been used
       town’s popular annual Festival   loggias of the buildings. The   for their restorative properties.
       Pablo Casals, featuring around  town was popular with artists   A short drive from Céret is the
       35 concerts of classical and   including Picasso, Braque and   spa town of Amélie-les-Bains,
       chamber music is held in the   Matisse, and the sophisticated   where fragments of its Roman
       abbey in his memory.  Musée d’Art Moderne houses   baths have been discovered.
                           a remarkable col lec tion. It has     Beyond, in Arles-sur-Tech,
                           works by the Catalan artists   the charming Eglise de Ste-
                           Tapiès and Capdeville; 50   Marie has some fine frescoes
       6 "'                                    from the 12th-century and a
       Prieuré de Serrabone                    sarcophagus, which, according
                                               to local lore, produces drops
       ! D7   ⌂ Boule d’Amont
       § 04 68 84 09 30 (tourist   Did You Know?  of unaccount ably pure water
       office)   # 10am–6pm daily              every year.

       ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec   Torches lit at a
                              midsummer bon fire    Musée d’Art Moderne
       Perched high up on the   atop Pic du Canigou are   "=   ⌂ 8 blvd Maréchal
       northern flanks of Pic du   used to light fires all   Joffre   # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
       Canigou, the sacred mountain   over Catalonia.  (to 7pm daily Jul–Sep)   ¢ Oct–
       of the Catalans, is the priory          Jun: Tue, 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov
       of Serrabone. A final lap of            & 25 Dec   ∑ musee-ceret.com
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