Page 480 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 480

Grapevines growing
                                                on a rocky slope on
                                                the Côte Vermeille

                                                Other artists, including André
                                                Derain, worked here under
                                                Matisse’s influence and were
      EXPERIENCE  Languedoc and Roussillon  8  Maillol, the 19th-century   shops now fill the cobbled
                                                dubbed fauves (wild beasts)
                                                for their experiments with
                                                colour. Galleries and souvenir
                                                streets, but this small fishing
                                                port has changed little, and
                                                anchovies are still its main
                                                business. Three shel tered
                                                beaches of pebble and sand,
                                                nestle round the harbour,
                                                dominated by Château Royal,
                            sculptor, whose work can
                                                which forms part of the har-
        Côte Vermeille
                              Port Vendres, with fortifi-
                                                the Knights Templar in the
        ! E7   ⌂ Pyrénées-
                                                13th century, and Collioure
                            cations that were built by the
        Orientales   k Perpignan
                            indefatigable Vauban (the
                                                became the main port of
        £ Collioure, Cerbère     be seen all over the region.  bour wall. It was first built by
        @ Collioure, Bany uls-   military archi tect to Louis XIV),   entry for Perpignan, remaining
        sur-Mer   n Collioure;    is a fishing port, renowned for   under the rule of Spanish
        www.collioure.com   anchovies and sardines.  Aragon until France took over
                                                in 1659. The outer fortifica-
        Here the Pyrénées meet the              tions were reinforced ten years
        Mediterranean, the coast road   9       later by Vauban, who demol-
        winding around secluded                 ished much of the original
        coves and rocky outcrops. The   Collioure   town in the process. The
        vermeille (vermilion-tinted)   ! E7   ⌂ Pyrénées-  château hosts exhibitions
        rock gives this stretch of coast,   Orientales   £ @   n Place du   of modern art.
        the region's loveli est, its name.  18 juin; www.collioure.com    The quayside Église Notre-
          The Côte Vermeille extends            Dame-des-Anges was built in
        to the Costa Brava in northern   The colours of Collioure first   the 17th century to replace
        Spain and, with its Catalan   attracted Matisse in 1905:   the one destroyed by Vauban.
        character, it is as redo lent of   brightly stuccoed houses shel-  Inside the church are five
        Spain as of France. Argelès-  tered by cypresses and gaily   Baroque altarpieces by Joseph
        Plage, with its three beaches,     painted fishing boats, all   Sunyer and other Catalan
        is Europe’s largest camping   bathed in the famous light,   masters of the genre.
        centre. The small resort of   and washed by a gentle sea.   Collioure is very popular in
        Cerbère, the last French town
        before the border, flies the
        Catalan flag to signal its true
        allegiance. Terraced vineyards
        cling to rocky hill sides, produ-
        cing strong, sweet wines such
        as Banyuls and Muscat. Vines
        were first cultivated here by
        Greeks in the 7th century BC,
        and Banyuls has caves dating
        back to the Middle Ages.
          Banyuls is also famous
        as the birthplace of Aristide
             Picturesque Collioure,
             with its pebble beach
              and historic church
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