Page 118 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Belgium & Luxembourg
P. 118

116      BEL GIUM  AND  L UXEMBOURG  REGION  B Y  REGION


                           a painter and sculptor born in   possessions is the incredibly
                           Bruges of Welsh parents. His   lifelike wood and terracotta
                           father, William Curtis Brangwyn,   bust of the Habsburg king
                           was an architect and painter,   Charles V carved in 1520. This
                           and one of a number of British   is attributed to the German
                           residents closely involved in the   sculptor Konrad Meit. There are
                           res toration of Bruges in the 19th   also a number of artifacts
                           century. Most of Frank Brangwyn’s  recalling the exile of Charles II
                           life was spent in Britain, but he   of England in Bruges. On the
                           bequeathed this collection to   second floor is a wooden chapel
                           Bruges, along with his carpets,   built in 1472 with a private
                           drawings and furniture. His    window into the Onthaalkerk
                           dark and powerful canvases   Onze-Lieve-Vrouw next door.
                           depict ing industrial scenes
       The stately, pale brick tower of   are particularly striking, and
       St-Salvatorskathedraal, Bruges  overall this is a surprising
                           and rewarding collection.
       R St-Salvatorskathedraal
       St-Salvatorskerkhof 1. Tel (050) 336188.   E Gruuthuse Museum
       Open 10am–1pm & 2–5:30pm Mon–  Dijver 17. Tel (050) 448743.
       Fri, 10am–1pm & 2–3:30pm Sat,   Open 9:30am–5pm daily once
       11:30am–noon & 2–5pm Sun. &  renovations completed late 2017. &
       Originally built as a parish church   Occupying a large medieval
       between the 12th and 15th   mansion close to the Dijver
       centuries, this brick build ing   Canal, the Gruuthuse Museum
       became Bruges’s cathedral in   holds a priceless collec tion of
       1834, following the destruc tion   fine and applied arts. These
       of the Cathedral of St Donation   date from Bruges’s heyday as
       in the Burg (see p112), by the   a wealthy trading city, and the
       French army in 1799. The   subsequent centuries.
       enormous but plain interior      In the 15th century, the
       of the building is offset by    building was inhabited by the
       the elaborate Baroque organ,   merchant (or lord of the   The soaring spire of the eclectic
       adorned with angels, which was   Gruuthuse) who had the   Onthaalkerk Onze-Lieve-Vrouw
       installed in 1682. The choir stalls   exclusive right to levy a tax on
       are decorated with the coats of   gruut – an imported mix ture of   R Onthaalkerk Onze-
       arms belonging to knights of the   herbs added to bar ley during   Lieve-Vrouw
       Order of the Golden Fleece,   the beer-brewing process. The   Mariastraat. Tel (050) 345314.
       dating from a convention held    mansion’s laby rinthine rooms,   Open 9:30am–4:30pm Sat, noon–
       in 1478. The order, founded by   with their ancient chimney   4:30pm Sun. Closed for tours during
       Philip the Good in Bruges in     pieces and wooden beams,   services. & choir only.
       1430, called together many of   have survived intact. Nowa days,    ∑ museabrugge.be
       Europe’s rulers and powerbrokers  they house woodcarvings,   The construction of the
       to settle disputes and uphold   musical instruments, weapons,   Onthaalkerk Onze-Lieve-Vrouw
       the ideals of Christianity and   furniture and tapestries. There is   (the Welcome Church of Our
       chivalry. Above the choir stalls   even a medical section devoted   Lady) began in 1220 and ended
       hang handsome Brussels   to cures of everyday ailments   200 years later. In consequence,
       tapestries that date back to    such as haemorrhoids. One of   it incorporates a variety of
       the early 18th century and   the museum’s most treasured   architectural styles. Its 122-m
       depict scenes from the Bible.
       E Arentshuis
       Dijver 16. Tel (050) 448763.
       Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
       ∑ museabrugge.be
       An 18th-century mansion
       overlooking the Dijver Canal,
       the Arentshuis is now an annexe
       of the Groeninge Museum (see
       pp118–19), which stands nearby.
       The ground floor is used to
       house temporary exhibitions.
       On the first floor are works by
       Frank Brangwyn (1867–1956),    An elaborate tapestry depicting the “free arts”, Gruuthuse Museum
       For hotels and restaurants see pp266–7 and pp283–4


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