Page 119 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Belgium & Luxembourg
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BRUGES      117


                                               P Begijnhof
                                               Wijngaardplein 1. Tel (050) 330011.
                                               Open daily.
                                               The Bruges begijnhof was
                                               founded in 1245 by Margaret
                                               of Constantinople, Countess of
                                               Flanders. Entered via an 18th-
                                               century gatehouse at the end of
                                               a bridge that runs over a canal,
                                               this is an area of quiet tree-lined
                                               paths faced by white, gabled
                                               houses and a green at the centre.
                                               It is an enjoy able place for a stroll
       Warm brick tones in an inner courtyard of the Sint-Janshospitaal  and visitors can also walk into
                                               the small church that was built
       (400-ft) tall spire is one of the   in the open-plan site of the old   here in 1602. The nuns who live
       tallest in Belgium. The interior,   chapel, there is the small but   in these houses today are no
       with its white walls, stark   supreme collection of Hans   longer béguines (see p65) but
       columns and black-and-   Memling’s paintings. This   Benedictine sisters who moved
       white tiled floor has a    includes the St Ursula Shrine,    here in the 1930s. One of the
       medieval simplicity, while    a reliquary painted with scenes   houses is open to visitors and
       the side chapels and pulpit    from the legend of St Ursula,    dis plays simple rustic furniture
       are lavishly decorated.  The Adoration of the Magi and    and artifacts that illustrate the
         One of the church’s artistic   the polyptych of The Mystic   béguines’ contemplative lives.
       highlights is Michelangelo’s   Marriage of St Catherine (see
       1505 sculpture, Madonna and   p106). The martyr doms of St John   Y Minnewater
       Child, located at the end of    the Baptist and St John the   Just south of the begijnhof,
       the southern aisle. This marble   Divine (to whom the hospital   Minnewater is a peaceful park
       statue was imported by a   was dedicated) are illustrated    with a lake. The name prob ably
       Flemish merchant, and was    in side-panels.  means innerwater, but because
       the only one of the artist’s            minne is a Dutch word for love,
       works to leave Italy during his   E Brouwerij De Halve Maan   Minnewater is often referred to
       lifetime. In the choir, there are   Walplein 26. Tel (050) 444222    as The Lake of Love. Swans have
       fine paintings by Pieter Pourbus   Open 11am–4pm daily (to 5pm Sat).   been here since 1488 when
       (1523–84), including his 1562   & 8 7 0 = ∑ halvemaan.be  Maximilian of Austria ordered
       Last Supper, and the carved   The Halve Maan (Half Moon) is    that they be kept in memory of
       mausoleums of the Burgundian   a historic brewery and museum   his councillor, Pierre Lanchals,
       duke Charles the Bold and his   in the centre of Bruges. The   who was beheaded by the
       daughter, Mary.     brewery is a family business   Bruges citizens. The Lanchals
                           with a tradition stretching back   coat of arms features a swan.
       E Sint-Janshospitaal  through six generations to 1856.    Once a bustling harbour
       Mariastraat 38. Tel (050) 476100.    This is where the Bruges city   connected to canals and the
       Open 10am–5pm daily. & 9 7   beer, Brugse Zot – a strong-   sea, the Minnewater can today
       = ∑ museabrugge.be  tasting, high-fermentation beer   be reached by the barges that
       This site has been occupied   based on malt, hops and special   take visitors on a tour of Bruges.
       since the 12th century by the   yeast – is brewed. Guided tours   It is also a popular spot for
       St-Janshospitaal, which closed   taking 45 minutes start on every   walkers and picnickers, featuring
       as a working hospital only    hour and give an in-depth   a pretty 15th-century lock gate,
       in 1976. During Bruges’s   insight into the brewing process.   sluicegate house and the 1398
       Burgundian Golden Age in the   They end with a beer tasting.  gun powder tower, Poedertoren.
       15th century, the great German-
       born painter Hans Memling
       (c.1430–94) created a number
       of exqui site paint ings,
       commissioned specially for the
       hospital chapel in about 1479.
       The remark able museum here
       today therefore has two aspects.
       First, there are the evocative
       medieval hospital wards
       with antique beds, medical
       instruments, paintings and
       documentation as well as an
       old apotheek (pharmacy). Then,   The sluicegate house on the Southern Bridge at the Minnewater




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