Page 96 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Tokyo

94  BEY OND T OK Y O

Exploring Kita Kamakura gardens. As well as hydrangeas
(at their peak in June), there are
Zen Buddhism came to Japan from China at the end of the irises; these bloom in late May,
12th century. Its simplicity and accessibility appealed to the when the rear garden, usually
ethos of Kamakura samurai warriors as well as to ordi nary only tantalizingly glimpsed
people. Kita (north) Kamakura, a tranquil area of wooded through a round win dow, is
gullies, includes three of Kama kura’s five great Zen temples – opened to the public.
Kencho-ji, Engaku-ji, and Jochi-ji (the others are Jomyo-ji  Kencho-ji Temple
and Jufuku-ji). The area is served by its own train station, £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467)
from which most sights can be reached on foot. Delicate 22-0981. Open daily. &
vegetarian food (see p119), which complies with Zen dietary Kencho-ji is the foremost of
rules, can be tried at Kita Kamakura temples and restaurants. Kamakura’s five great Zen
temples and the oldest Zen
training monastery in Japan.
 Engaku-ji Temple Founded in 1253, the temple
£ Kita Kamakura stn. originally had seven main
Tel (0467) 22-0478. buildings and 49 subtemples;
Open daily. & many were destroyed in fires,
Deep in trees, the largest but 10 subtemples remain.
of Kama kura’s five great Beside the impressive Sanmon
Zen temples, Engaku-ji gate is the bell, cast in 1255,
was founded by the which has a Zen inscription
Hojo regent Tokimune by the temple’s founder. The
in 1282. An influential Buddha Hall contains a Jizo
medi tation center since bodhisattva, savior of souls of
the Meiji era, it now the dead. Behind the hall is the
runs public courses. Hatto, where public cere monies
Although much are performed. The Karamon
of Engaku-ji was (Chinese gate) leads to the Hojo,
destroyed by the 1923 used for services. Its rear garden
Kanto Earthquake, 17 is constructed around a pond
of its more than 40 supposedly in the shape of the
subtemples remain, and kanji character for heart or
careful re building has mind. To the side of the temple
ensured that it retains its a tree-lined lane leads to sub-
charac teristic Zen layout temples and up steps to Hanso-
(see opposite). One of bo, the temple’s shrine.
its highlights, in the Bosatsu statue at Kencho-ji
Shozoku-in subtemple, is  Zeni-Arai Benten Shrine
the Shariden. Japan’s finest  Tokei-ji Temple £ Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) 25-1081.
example of Chinese Sung-style £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) Open daily.
Zen archi tecture, it is open 22-1663. Open daily. & This popular shrine is dedi cated
only at New Year but can be This quiet little temple was set to Benten, goddess of music,
seen through a gate at other up as a convent in 1285, at a eloquence, and the arts, and
times. Farther on, the Butsuni- time when only men were one of the “seven lucky gods” of
chian, mauso leum of Engaku-ji’s allowed to petition for divorce. folk religion. Hidden in a niche
founder, serves matcha tea. It However, if a woman spent three in the cliffs, it is approached
was the setting for Yasunari years here she could divorce through a small tunnel and a
Kawabata’s 1949 novel Sen­ her husband. Thus Tokei-ji was row of torii (gates). These lead
bazuru (Thousand Cranes). nicknamed the “divorce temple.” to a pocket of wafting incense,
In 1873 the law was changed to lucky charms, and a cave spring
allow women to initiate divorce; where visitors wash coins in the
in 1902 Tokei-ji became a mona- hope of doubling their value.
stery. It is still refuge-like, with
gardens stretching back to the
wooded hillside.

 Meigetsu-in Temple
£ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467)
24-3437. Open daily. &
Known as the “hydrangea
Stone monuments in the peaceful cemetery temple,” Meigetsu-in is a small
at Tokei-ji temple Zen temple with attractive Washing coins at Zeni-Arai Benten shrine

094-095_EW_Tokyo.indd 94 12/09/16 11:28 am