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96      BEY OND  T OK Y O


       5 Chichibu-Tama-     Yosegi-Zaiku Marquetry
       Kai National Park
                            Originating in the 9th century, this type of marquetry has been a
                   Cichibu-Tama National Park
                            Hakone specialty since the 19th century; today there are about
       Tokyo, Saitama, Nagano, and Yamana-  100 practitioners in the area. Although it looks like in laid mosaic,
       shi prefectures. * 71,500 (Chichibu   yosegi-zaiku uses a very different
       city). £ Seibu-Chichibu stn, Seibu-  technique. Strips are cut from planks
       Chichibu line; Chichibu stn, Chichibu   of up to 40 varieties of undyed woods
       line; Okutama or Mitake stns, JR line.   and glued together to form patterned
       n Chichibu stn (0494) 25-3192.       blocks. These are in turn glued into
       _ Yo Matsuri (Dec 2–3, Chichibu      larger blocks, which are then either
       city). ∑ env.go.jp/en/nature/nps/    shaped with a lathe into bowls and
       park/parks/chichibu.html             boxes, or shaved into cross-sectional
                                            sheets, used to coat items such as
                                            boxes and purses. The paper-thin
       This remote area of low              sheets are flexible and can be
       mountains, rich in traditions        laminated. Some of the most popular
       and wildlife, stretches from         creations are “magic” boxes, opened
       the narrow valleys of Okutama   Craftsman making a    in a sequence of moves to reveal a
       in the south to the basin   yosegi-zaiku box  hidden drawer.
       around Chichibu city in the
       north. The two parts of the
       park are separated by   Environs        leaving a legacy today of hot
       mountains, crossed only by    South of Chichibu-Tama lies   springs and steam vents.
       a few hiking trails, and are   Mount Takao (on the Keio train     Although Hakone can be
       reached by two separate rail   line to Takaosan-guchi). Its slopes   visited as a long day trip from
       networks. Within the park,   have pleasant walks with sweep-  Tokyo, it is worth an overnight
       travel is mostly by bus.  ing views of Tokyo and Mount Fuji.  stay. Two- or three-day public
         Chichibu was a prime silk-            transportation passes are avail-
       producing region until the    6 Hakone    able on the Odakyu Line from
       early 20th century. Today it is         Shinjuku, Tokyo. A convenient
       known for its vibrant festivals       Hakone
                                               circuit of the main sights starts
       and its pilgrim route linking    Kanagawa prefecture. * 14,000.    from the onsen (hot spring)
       34 Kannon temples. To the   £ n 698 Yumoto, Hakone (0460)   town of Hakone-Yumoto, taking
       north, at Nagatoro, the Arakawa   85-8911. ∑ hakone.or.jp/en    the Tozan switchback train up
       River runs past rare crystalline   _ Torii yaki (Aug 5, Lake Ashi), Daimyo  the hillside to Hakone Open-Air
       schist rock formations.  Gyoretsu (Nov 3, Hakone-Yumoto).  Museum, with its modern
         In the Okutama area, Mount            sculptures. Continue via funi-
       Mitake has good hiking, and an   Hakone is a hilly hot-spring town  cular to Hakone Art Museum,
       attractive mountaintop shrine   whose scattered attractions    which has an excellent Japanese
       village, easily reached by a   are both cultural and natural.   ceramic collection and garden.
       funicular. Stalactite caves at   Popular as a re sort since the 9th   Via the funicular and then a
       Nippara are worth visiting.  century, it can be very crowded.   ropeway over the crest of the
                           The Hakone area extends across   hill is the Owaku-dani (“Valley
       } Nippara Caves     the collapsed remains of a huge   of great boiling”), an area of
       NW of Okutama. Tel (0428) 83-8491.   volcano, which was active    sulfurous steam vents. This is
       Open daily. &       until 3,000 to 4,000 years ago,   an active volcanic zone, so

















       Crossing the rocky scree and steaming vents of Owaku-dani valley in Hakone




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