Page 145 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
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PIAZZA  DI  SP A GNA      143

       p Mausoleum of                          s Santi Ambrogio e
       Augustus                                Carlo al Corso
       Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Map 4 F2.    Via del Corso 437. Map 4 F2. Tel
       Tel 06-0608. @ 81, 117, 492, 628, 926.   06-682 8101. @ 81, 117, 492, 628,
       Open on special occasions only (call    926. Open 7am–7pm daily. ^
       for details).
       Now just a weedy mound                  This church belonged to the
       ringed with cypresses, this was         Lombard community in Rome,
       once the most prestigious burial        and is dedicated to two
       place in Rome. Augustus had             canonized bishops of Milan,
       the mausoleum built in 28 BC,           Lombardy’s capital. In 1471,
       the year he became sole ruler,          Pope Sixtus IV gave the
       as a tomb for himself and his           Lombards a church, which they
       descendants. The circular               dedicated to Sant’Ambrogio,
       building was 285 ft (87 m)              who died in 397. Then, in 1610,
       in diameter.        Madonna, San Rocco, and Sant’Antonio    when Carlo Borromeo was
         Inside were four concentric   with Victims of the Plague by Il Baciccia   canonized, the church was
       passageways linked by corridors   (1639–1709)  rebuilt in his honor. Most of the
       where the urns containing the           new church was the work of
       ashes of the Imperial family   a San Rocco   father and son Onorio and
       were placed. The first to be   Largo San Rocco 1. Map 4 F2.    Martino Longhi, but the fine
       buried here was Augustus’s   Tel 06-689 6416. @ 81, 117, 492, 628,   dome is by Pietro da Cortona.
       favorite nephew, Marcellus, who   926. Open 7–9am & 4:30–8pm Mon–  The altarpiece by Carlo Maratta
       had married Julia, the emperor’s   Sat; 8:30am–1pm & 4:30–8pm Sun.   (1625–1713) is the Gloria dei
       daughter. He died in 23 BC,   Closed Aug 17–31. 5  Santi Ambrogio e Carlo. An
       possibly poisoned by Augustus’s         ambulatory leads behind the
       second wife Livia, who felt that   This church, with a restrained   altar to a chapel housing the
       her son, Tiberius, would make a   Neo-Classical facade by   the heart of San Carlo in a richly
       more reliable emperor. When   Giuseppe Valadier, the designer   decorated reliquary.
       Augustus died in AD 14, his   of Piazza del Popolo, began life
       ashes were placed in the   as the chapel of a
       mausoleum, Tiberius duly   16th-century
       became emperor, and dynastic   hospital with
       poisonings continued to fill the   beds for 50 men –
       family vault with urns.  San Rocco was a healer
         This sinister monument was   of the plague-stricken. A
       later used as a medieval fortress,   maternity wing was added
       a vineyard, a private garden, and  for the wives of Tiber
       even, in the 18th century, as an   bargees to save them from
       auditorium and theater.   having to give birth in the
         While the mausoleum is now   unsanitary conditions of a boat.
       only open for special occasions,   The hospital came to be used
       the impressive structure can still   by unmarried mothers, and
       be admired from the outside.  one section was set aside for
                           women who wished to conceal
                           their identities. They were even
                           permitted to wear a veil for
                           the duration of their stay.
                           Unwanted children were
                           sent to an orphanage, and if
                           any mothers or children died,
                           they were buried in anonymous
                           graves. The hospital was
                           abandoned in the early 20th
                           century, and demolished in the
                           1930s during the excavation of
                           the Mausoleum of Augustus.
                             The church sacristy contains
                           an interesting Baroque
                           altarpiece (c. 1660) by Il
                           Baciccia, the artist who deco-  Statue of San Carlo by Attilio Selva
                           rated the ceiling of the Gesù   (1888–1970) behind the apse of Santi
       Augustus, the first Roman emperor  (see pp110–11).  Ambrogio e Carlo




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