Page 150 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

148  ROME AREA B Y AREA

1 Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. Map 4 E4 & 11
C4. @ 116 and routes to Largo di
Torre Argentina or Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II. See Markets p344.
The Campo de’ Fiori (field of
flowers), once a meadow,
occupies the site of the open
space facing the Theater
of Pompey. Cardinals and Window pediment with heraldic lion and pine cones, Palazzo Pio Righetti
noblemen used to rub shoulders
with fishmongers and foreigners reticulatum – small square The clock on the left was
in the piazza’s market, making it blocks of tufa (porous rock) added later.
one of the liveliest areas of set diagonally as a facing for Within, the chapel is a jewel of
medieval and Renaissance Rome. a concrete wall. Baroque architecture, adorned
Today’s market retains much of with gilded stucco, marble
the traditional lively atmosphere. 3 Palazzo del paneling, and reliefs. It is a
In the center of the square perfect setting for the sculptures
is a statue of the philosopher Monte di Pietà by Domenico Guidi – a bust of
Giordano Bruno, burned at the Piazza del Monte di Pietà 33. San Carlo Borromeo and a relief
stake for heresy here in 1600. Map 4 E5 & 11 C4. Tel 06-622 7252. of the Pietà. There are also
The hooded figure is a grim @ 116 and routes to Largo di Torre splendid reliefs by Giovanni
reminder of the executions Argentina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Battista Théudon and Pierre
that were held here. v 8. Chapel: Open by appt for Legros of biblical scenes
The piazza was surrounded accredited groups. Call ahead. illustrating the charitable nature
by inns for pilgrims and other of the institution.
travelers. Many of these were The Monte, as it is known, is a
once owned by the successful public institution, founded in 4 Sotterranei
15th-century courtesan 1539 by Pope Paul III Farnese as
Vannozza Catanei, mistress of a pawn shop to staunch the di San Paolo
Pope Alexander VI Borgia. On usury then rampant in the city. alla Regola
the corner between the piazza The building still has offices
and Via del Pellegrino you can and auction rooms for the Via di San Paolo alla Regola. Map 11
C5. Tel 06-0608. @ 23, 116, 280, and
see Catanei’s shield, which she sale of unclaimed goods. routes to Largo di Torre Argentina.
had decorated with her own The stars with diagonal bands v 8. Open by appt only, with permit.
coat of arms, those of her on the huge central plaque
husband, and those of her decorating the facade are the An old palace hides the
lover, the Borgia pope. coat of arms of Pope Clement perfectly conserved remains of
VIII Aldobrandini, added when an ancient Roman house, dating
2 Palazzo Pio Carlo Maderno enlarged the from the 2nd–3rd centuries.
Restoration works are being
palace in the 17th century.
Righetti
Piazza del Biscione 95–99. Map 4 E5 &
11 C4. @ 116 and routes to Largo
Torre Argentina or Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II. Closed to the public.
The vast 17th-century Palazzo
Pio Righetti was built over the
ruined Theater of Pompey.
The windows of the palazzo
are decorated with lions and
pine cones from the coat of
arms of the Pio da Carpi family,
who lived here.
The curve of the Theater of
Pompey, completed in 55 BC, is
followed by Via di Grotta Pinta.
Rome’s first permanent theater
was built of stone and concrete,
and in the basement of the
Pancrazio restaurant you can
see early examples of opus Relief by Théudon of Joseph Distributing Grain to the Egyptians in Palazzo del Monte di Pietà

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