Page 174 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
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172      ROME  AREA  B Y  AREA


                           romana) by the 17th-century
                           French artist Gaspare Dughet,
                           Poussin’s brother-in-law, in the
                           right aisle. The frescoes by
                           Filippo Gagliardi, at either end
                           of the left aisle, show old St.
                           Peter’s and the interior of San
                           Giovanni in Laterano before
                           Borromini’s redesign. If you can
                           find the sacristan, you can go   Reliquary with St. Peter’s chains
                           beneath the church to see the
                           remains of Equitius’s house.  the Mamertine Prison (see p93)
                                               were subsequently taken to
                                               Constantinople. In the 5th
       Fresco of old San Giovanni in Laterano in   2 San Pietro    century, Empress Eudoxia
       San Martino ai Monti  in Vincoli        deposited one in a church in
                                               Constantinople and sent the
       1 San Martino       Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4A.    other to her daughter Eudoxia
       ai Monti            Map 5 C5. Tel 06-9784 4950.    in Rome. She in turn gave
                           @ 75, 117. q Cavour, Colosseo.
       Viale del Monte Oppio 28. Map 6 D5.   Open 8am–12:30pm & 3–7pm    hers to Pope Leo I, who had
                                               this church built to house it.
       Tel 06-478 4701. @ 16, 714.    (Oct–Mar: until 6pm) daily. 5 7 =  Some years later the second
       q Cavour, Vittorio Emanuele.    According to tradition, the    chain was brought to Rome,
       Open 7:30am–noon & 4–7pm daily.
       5 7                 two chains (vincoli) used to   where it linked miraculously
                           shackle St. Peter while he was   with its partner.
       Christians have been worship-  being held in the depths of      The chains are still here,
       ping on the site of this church         displayed below the high altar,
       since the 3rd century, when             but the church is now best
       they used to meet in the house          known for Michelangelo’s
       of a man named Equitius.                Tomb of Pope Julius II. When it
       In the 4th century, after               was commissioned in 1505,
       Constantine had legalized               Michelangelo spent eight
       Christianity, Pope Sylvester I          months searching for perfect
       built a church, one of the very         blocks of marble at Carrara in
       few things he did during his            Tuscany, but Pope Julius
       pontificate. In fact, he was so          became more interested in
       insignificant that in the 5th             the building of a new
       century a more exciting life              St. Peter’s and the project
       was fabricated for him –                   was laid aside. After the
       which included tales of him                pope’s death in 1513,
       converting Constantine,                    Michelangelo resumed
       curing him of leprosy,                      work on the tomb, but
       and forcing him to close                    had only finished the
       all pagan temples. Pope                     statues of Moses and
       Sylvester’s fictional life was              The Dying Slaves when
       further enhanced in the 8th             Pope Paul III persuaded him
       century, with the forgery of             to start work on the Sistine
       a document in which                       Chapel’s Last Judgment.
       Constantine offered him                   Michelangelo had planned
       the Imperial crown.                        a vast monument with over
         Pope Sylvester’s church                  40 statues, but the tomb
       was replaced in about                       that was built – mainly by
       AD 500 by St. Symmachus,                    his pupils – is simply a
       rebuilt in the 9th century,                 facade with six niches
       and then transformed                       for statues. The Dying Slaves
       completely in the 1630s.                   are in Paris and Florence,
       The only obvious signs of its              but the tremendous
       age are the ancient Corinthian             bearded Moses is here.
       columns dividing the nave                  The horns on Moses’s head
       and aisles. The most                        should really be beams of
       interesting interior features              light – they are the result
       are a series of frescoed                   of the original Hebrew from
       landscapes of the countryside              the Old Testament being
       around Rome (campagna   Michelangelo’s Moses in San Pietro in Vincoli  wrongly translated.




   US_172-173_EW_Rome_US.indd   172                          15/03/17   4:20 pm
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v1.9)
     Date 20th August 2012
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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