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ROME  AREA  B Y  AREA      169

       ESQUILINE

       The Esquiline is the largest and highest of   The area is now heavily built up, except
       Rome’s seven hills. In Imperial Rome the   for a rather seedy park on the Colle Oppio,
       western slopes overlooking the Forum   a smaller hill to the south of the Esquiline,
       housed the crowded slums of the Suburra.   where you can see the remains of the Baths
       On the eastern side there were a few villas   of Titus, the Baths of Trajan, and Nero’s
       belonging to wealthy citizens like Maecenas,  Domus Aurea. The area’s main interest,
       patron of the arts and adviser to Augustus.   however, lies in its churches. Many of these
       The essential character of the place has   were founded on the sites of private houses
       persisted through two millennia; it is still   where Christians met to worship secretly in
       one of the poorer quarters of the city.    the days when their religion was banned.

       Sights at a Glance
       Churches                                   Restaurants
       1 San Martino ai Monti                     see pp310–11
       2 San Pietro in Vincoli                   1  Agata e Romeo
       3 Santa Pudenziana                        2  Cuoco e Camicia
       4 Santa Maria Maggiore                    3  Da Danilo
         pp174–5                                 4  La Gallina Bianca
       5 Santa Prassede                          5  Hang Zhou
       7 Santa Bibiana                           6  Tempio di Iside
       Museums             See also Street Finder      7  Trattoria Monti
                           maps 5, 6, 9
       9 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
       Historic Piazzas
       8 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II             0 meters  300
       Ancient Sites                             0 yards  300
       0 Auditorium of Maecenas
       q Sette Sale               V.LE E. DE NICOLA  VIA
       w Domus Aurea                 PIAZZA DEI
       Arches                       CINQUECENTO  MARSALA
                                     Termini
       6 Arch of Gallienus        Termini
                                       Stazione Centrale
                                       Roma Termini
                              M. D’AZEGLIO  VIA  CAVOUR
                             VIA  VIA  MANIN AMENDOLA   VI A
                        BALBO URBANA  VIA    FARINI  GIOBERTI
                                   D.
                                           CATTANEO
                            PIAZZA
                                     VIA
                            DELL’
                     CESARE  ESQUILINO  VIA  VIA        PRINCIPE                     AMEDEO
                                             VIA
                       VIA
                              V. D. ESQUILINO
                    VIA S. M. MAGGIORE  V. LIBERIANA  PIAZZA S.  VIA  C.  FILIPPO
                    VIA     V. PAOLINA  MARIA  VIA  RATTAZZI  Laziali
                                                        GIOVAN NI
                       CAVOUR  V. QUATTRO  MAGGIORE VIA CARLO  VIA  III  TURATI
                                          NAPOLEONE
                                  VIA DI
                                                      VIA B.
                                                       RICASOLI
                              VIA S. MARTINO
                             VIA D. OLMATA S. PRASSEDE  V. S. VITO  VIA   T.  MAMIANI                   G I O LIT TI
                       Cavour
                    VIA  VIA  GIOVANNI   CANTONI    AI MONTI  V I A  ALBERTO  Vittorio  Santa Bibiana
                                LANZA
                                                        VIA
                             PIAZZA S.
                  LARGO     MARTINO AI   V. D. STATUTO  Emanuele LAMARMORA
                 VENOSTA  VIA IN SELCI   MONTI             VIA PRINCIPE UMBERTO
                                                  PIAZZA
           CAVOUR              MONTE      OPPIO   V. LEOPARDI  EMANUELE II  CAIROLI
                                                 VITTORIO
      VIA  FRANGIPANE  VIA D. SETTE SALE   LARGO  VIA BUONARROTI  ESQUILINO VIA PRINCIPE EUGENIO
                                           VIA
                                                         VIA
                         VIALE      DEL    DI TRAIANO  MECENATE  M  MACHIAVELLI  CONTE  VERDE M A N Z O N I
       VIA     VIA  EUDOSIANA    PARCO DI  LEOPARDI   FERRUCCIO  VIA  BIXIO
                                 TRAIANO
     VIA
                                             VIA N.
                               VIA D. TERME
                                               DANTE
             V. D. ANNIBALDI
            Colosseo                           PIAZZA  VIA     T.  TASSO  V I A  E.   F ILI B ER T O  NINO
       D EL  COLOSSEO
                                  VIA   VIA  C.    BOTTA   VIA ALFIERI  VIA  V I A L E
                                              V. GALILEO GALILEI  Manzoni
                       V I A L E  D O M U S  VIA  A.     POLIZIANO E R U L A N A
                  VIA N. SALVI
                                    VIA RUGGERO BONGHI
                                                VIALE  MANZONI
                                  V I A L. MURATORI
                                          V. P. VILLARI
                         V I A               L A B I C A N A
         Detail from the apse mosaic at Santa Maria Maggiore  For keys to symbols see back flap
   US_168-169_EW_Rome_US.indd   169                          15/03/17   3:52 pm
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